In an old trunk of family memorabilia, untouched for years, we found a travel diary written by John McBean, my wife, Annie’s, great-great maternal grandfather. The diary covers the period March 30 to September 21, 1881, when McBean sailed around the world. The stamp inside the back cover indicates that the diary was supplied by Dunn & Collins, Booksellers and Stationers, Arcade, Smith Street, Collingwood.
I suppose such items are not all that scarce, but McBean’s diary impressed me for a couple of reasons. First, it was lucidly written. McBean narrates an interesting story. Sure there are spelling and grammatical errors, but McBean while possibly not “educated” had certainly had schooling, and possessed a fine hand and a natural and inviting style. Second, McBean’s journey from Melbourne took nearly six months – not the journey of an explorer seeking to visit unknown places, but a journey with specific business purpose, and with the licence to circumnavigate the globe in the process. Was such a journey common for Melbournians in 1881?
So here are some extracts, plus what I hope are helpful annotations. McBean’s habit when at sea was to record the steamer’s daily mileage, and latitude and longitude. I have not included all of these. And I have, with great respect, tidied up the grammar and spelling although retaining some of the forms that we no longer use today. The diary is a lined exercise book with marbled covers, initially kept in black ink, later blue. McBean’s cursive script is sloping and easy to read, with the nib pressed stylishly hard on the downstroke. The pickings are a bit slim early on, but McBean really opens up when he reaches the United States.
Nowhere in the diary does McBean indicate his occupation. The McBean family were owners of a boot-making factory in Collingwood. At the time of McBean’s trip there were a number of grown sons, and we can assume that John McBean, at least, was in the family business - his excursion to the boot-manufacturing plant in Boston and his keen interest in the boot-making trade is consistent with that. His noting of the latest labour-saving machinery suggests an intention to secure some for the family business.
There is no-one living who remembers John McBean, or his son also John McBean, and Annie’s mother died more than a decade ago, so the diary may just as easily have been written by someone quite unrelated…….but that’s not the way it feels.
Wednesday March 30th1881. S.S. Cotopaxi. 4025 tons. Captain R. Studdert. Said goodbye to Mr. Hickman, Fraser and Greenan, and sailed away at 12 o’clock sharp. Feel quite lonely. Made the acquaintance of two fellow passengers, one from Fitzroy the other from Hotham. They are very sociable.
Hotham is today’s North Melbourne. The Cotopaxi was built in Glasgow in 1873. She was wrecked on May 15th1889. All on board were saved by the German steamer, Setos. A photograph of an engraving put loosely into McBean’s diary by some later reader shows a foundering ship, with laden lifeboats pulling away, and the caption: “Sinking of the Steam-Ship Cotopaxi in the Straits of Magellan”.
Had dinner at one o’clock and they gave us a first class dinner. Passed through the Heads at half-past-three, pilot left us at four. Passed the Cape Otway at nine o’clock. Ship going along beautiful. So far escaped sea sickness.
Thursday March 31st. Had a good night’s rest, got up at six o’clock, had my first bath. Very high sea running. Ship rolling very much, a good many of the passengers sick, myself included.
Friday April 1st. We arrived at the Semaphore at nine o’clock – went up by rail to Adelaide, about nine miles. Met a friend and went to see the Botanical Gardens, they are very beautiful gardens, better than we have in Melbourne. We also went to the Museum and Public Library. At night we went to the theatre and saw the play Blow for Blow. Stayed at the Coffee Tavern.
Did the terms of passage require the passengers to find accommodation on shore while the ship was in port, or was this McBean’s choice?
Saturday April 2nd. After breakfast had a walk through the town. It is a very fine town, built mostly of white sandstone, and the buildings not too high, which gives it a light appearance. Took a car and went down to a place called Kensington. It is a pretty place, at the bottom of a range of hills, with gardens and vineyards on the slope of the hills. Fruit is very cheap, beautiful grapes at a penny and tuppence a pound. Went on board at one o’clock and the ship started on her journey again at four. Met with a loss that rather annoyed me. An old gentleman who left us at Adelaide took away my overcoat by mistake, and left his own. The worst part of it was that my Bible was in the pocket.
Sunday April 3rd. Went to church this morning. Captain read from Church of England service. They gave us a very good dinner – fowls, roast meat, pudding and fruit. Latitude at noon 35 degrees 20 south, 133 degrees 20 east. Distance run 260 miles.
Monday April 4th. Had our first game of quoits. Weather warm and sultry.
Wednesday April 6th. Passed Cape Leeuwin, the last land we see of Australia. Weather rough. Ship rolling very much. Passed the mail steamer. She left Adelaide 24 hours before us.
Friday April 8th. Passed large sailing ship, the first we have seen.
Saturday April 9th. We expect to be in tropics tomorrow. Weather sultry. We have had a good shower of rain.
Tuesday April 12th. One of the ladies in the First cabins gave birth to a daughter this morning. So far they are both doing well. It must be very uncomfortable for her as the weather is excessively hot.
Wednesday April 13th. Weather very warm, occasional showers, just like living in a vapour bath, everything feels damp.
Thursday April 14th. First cabin invited Second cabin passengers to a concert. It passed off very well. We have some first class musical talent on board, amongst them the leader of the Australian Band.
Monday April 18th. We have this day crossed the Line and it is raining heavily. We were to have Easter sports to-day but owing to the rainy weather we have postponed them. Latitude at noon 0 degrees 44 north, 62 degrees 6 east. Distance run 300 miles.
Tuesday April 19th. We had Easter Sports day to-day and spent a very enjoyable day’s fun, Second class passengers carrying off most of the prizes.
Thursday April 21st. Sighted land this morning, Cape Guardafui. It is a wild looking coast and the cliffs stand very high. It is a headland of Central Africa, and near the country that Livingstone explored.
David Livingstone, Scottish physician, Christian missionary, and explorer, spent years searching for the source of the Nile River, believing that the fame that would result would give him enough influence to abolish the East-African slave trade. He was a national hero in Victorian times, and his life - and death in the jungle in 1873 - would have been well known to McBean.
Friday April 22nd. We passed Aden today, a very ancient town. There are two large wells cut out of the solid rock and supposed to date back as far as the times of King Solomon. We passed through the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, the Gate of Tears, or as it is called by the sailors, Hell’s Gate, owing to so many ships being wrecked there.
The Strait is the narrow opening to the Red Sea, Africa on the port side and the Arabian Peninsula on the starboard.
Saturday April 23rd. We are now in the Red Sea and the heat is something unbearable. I slept on deck last night, but did not get more than four hours’ sleep. We passed by two steamers that had been wrecked on this coast, one of them a very large ship lying on a sandbank with her hull under water. The land that we now see is part of the coast of Abyssinia. We also passed a large troop ship supposed to be taking soldiers home from India. We passed close by her and gave her three cheers. She is called the Jumna.
The inadequate Wikipedia entry says Jumna, a 1048-ton iron sailing ship, was launched in 1867, and transported Indian indentured labour to Trinidad and Fiji. There is no mention of her role as a troop carrier, or of her fate.
Tuesday April 26th. Weather much cooler. Saw a high mountain in the distance, supposed to be Mt. Sinai. Arrived at Suez at half past 10 o’clock. Anchored there all night.
Wednesday April 27th. Several small boats came alongside the ship this morning with Arabs selling curios. They are a strange-looking people and they are worse than Jews in making a bargain. [Were these sentiments typical of the times? Was McBean prejudiced, or merely being observant?] We started on our journeying again at half past seven a.m. We are now in the Canal with a lot of Arab boys and girls running along the bank, following the ship, asking for pennies. We have some fine sport with them. It is a barren desert country without any vegetation. Passed the P & O mail boat Pekin. We had to put into one side so as to let her pass. Arrived at the Isthmus of Suez. Passed by the Palace of the Khedive of Egypt. It is a large square building with a flat roof.
Thursday April 28th. Passed droves of camels travelling over the desert. The ship ran on to a sandbank but we soon got off again. The country that we are travelling through is sandy desert as far as we can see. There is nothing but sand. Arrived at Port Said at one o’clock. Went on shore and had a walk through town. A miserable looking place, houses mostly built of wood and so small that you could not swing a cat in them. They are a mixed lot of people that live here - Turks, Arabs and Egyptians, and the place is full of beggars. The streets are lined with stalls. If you buy anything from them they generally ask double what they will take. We visited some singing and dancing salons, and during all the time we were there we were followed by droves of beggars. Three of us got on Jerusalem donkeys and galloped through the town, which caused great amusement to ourselves and those that were looking at us. The ship started on her journey at seven p.m.
The Nubian donkey, also called the Jerusalem donkey, has a black mane and a black line running from that mane down its back, and a black line across its shoulders to complete the cross. Legend says that such a donkey carried Jesus into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday.
Sunday May 1st. Weather very rough, several of our passengers sick myself included. We are now on the coast of Italy and Sicily, see Mt. Etna smoking in the distance.
Monday May 2nd. We are now entering the Bay of Naples. A beautiful bay, said to be one of the finest in the world. We anchored at Naples but had not time to go ashore and were much disappointed, it is a fine looking city. It lies at the bottom of Mount Vesuvius, and we saw thick clouds of smoke coming out.
Thursday May 5th. We are now off the coast of Spain. We see the snow-capped mountains of Sierra Nevada, the first snow I have seen since I left home. It is a beautiful sight. We passed through the Straits of Gibraltar, but it was too dark to see the fortification.
Sunday May 8th. Still in the Bay of Biscay, expected to be in Plymouth tomorrow. Latitude at noon 46 degrees 53 north. Longitude 6 degrees 49 west. Distance run 286 miles.
Monday May 9th. Arrived at Plymouth at six o’clock and stayed there two hours. Several of our passengers left us. We are now on our way to London and expect to be there tomorrow.
Here McBean discontinues his diary for 65 days, resuming as he is about to leave Glasgow. I assume that during these two months McBean stayed with family, most likely Scottish. I also assume that he did not venture to the Continent, otherwise he would have taken his diary.
Thursday July 14th. Said goodbye to Cousin Jeanie at St. Enoch Station, Glasgow. Took train to Greenock. Went on board ship Ethiopia, Archibald Campbell captain. Sailed away from Greenock at eight p.m.
Greenock is downstream from Glasgow, near the mouth of the Clyde River. The S.S. Ethiopia, of 4004 gross tons and launched 1873, was operated by the Norwegian Anchor Line. It plied the Glasgow/New York service until 1898 and was scrapped in 1907.
Friday July 15th. Arrived at Moville, Ireland, five o’clock a.m. A very pretty little town. Sailed from there at three o’clock p.m. As usual my troubles began – was very sick, went to bed early.
Moville is near the north-east corner of Ireland, beyond Belfast. The route to New York was around the north of Ireland.
Sunday July 17th. Sea still running high, and blowing very hard. It is the roughest sea that ever I was in. Still sick. Distance run 282 miles.
Monday July 18th. Weather still rough. Lady passengers all sick, and a good many of the gentlemen. Made very short run to-day.
Wednesday July 20th. We have got about half of our journey over. Weather fine.
Thursday July 21st. Weather very cold. We are in the vicinity of icebergs and are passing through thick fogs.
Friday July 22nd. Weather still foggy. We had a fire on board ship. It broke out down among the coals. Fortunately it was discovered before much damage was done. It caused great excitement among the lady passengers, several of them fainted. Before going to bed everything was restored to order. Distance run 280 miles.
Saturday July 23rd. We are now in better weather. We had a mock trial on board to-day. Two of our passengers made a bet with reference to the distance that we would run, and through some misunderstanding each thought that he had won. So we formed ourselves into a court. We elected a judge and six jurymen, and we had some fine sport. The plaintiff was nonsuited and had to pay for nine bottles of ale.
Sunday July 24th. Had a service on board to-day by a missionary from Japan who gave a very interesting lecture about that country. Took the pilot on board and expect to be in New York tomorrow night.
Monday July 25th. We are in very fine weather and are anxiously looking for the land. We had a concert and dancing on deck. Ten o’clock p.m. sighted Fire Island Lighthouse. Distance run 298 miles.
Tuesday July 26th. Arrived at quarantine. Doctor came on board and passed the emigrants. I very near got myself into trouble with the Customs House officers. They found some presents in my trunk and I thought I was going to lose them. We landed in New York at 8 o’clock p.m. [Surely McBean means a.m.] I posted my letter and then went sight-seeing. New York is a fine city but I would not care to live in it. [New York population 1880 1207000. Melbourne population 1881 293000.] We went down the harbour to a place called Coney Island. First we went to the beach where we saw men and women all bathing together. Then we went up an elevator 300 feet high and had a beautiful view all over the Island. Next we went to a pavilion where there was singing in one part and dancing in the other, and there were thousands of people all over the Island. And they tell me it is like this all the summer months. They like to have everything on a large scale. This whole Island is covered with shows, merry-go-rounds and dancing salons. We returned to the city. At night we wandered through the town. There is a lot of drinking here. There are large pavilions where you can go in and have a glass of beer and listen to music played by women, and in some of them there are very fine bands. I am writing this before going to bed and it is very warm. It was 97 degrees in the shade to-day
Wednesday July 27th. Took a bus this morning and rode a distance of about six miles for five cents, to a place called Central Park. It is a large fine park with Museum and wild beasts. I was a little disappointed with the Museum. It is not near so good as the one we have in Melbourne. It is a fine park. They have an obelisk supposed to be three thousand years old, brought from Egypt. There is a fine lake in the centre of the park where you may have a boat. New York is a great place for large buildings, there are some of the largest buildings here that ever I saw and some of them are very fine. They have also Elevator Railways. They are raised about 30 feet above the road and made of light ironwork. Trains run on top, and the road traffic is underneath. They are very convenient, but they spoil the look of the city.
The 200 tons Cleopatra’s Needle obelisk was a gift to the United States from the Khedive of Egypt, and was erected on January 22, 1881, a mere six months prior to McBean’s visit. The illustration (which wrongly claims that the obelisk was in Central Park in the 1870s) vividly shows that the damage caused by New York pollution in 130 years has been far greater than that caused by harsh Egyptian conditions in over three millennia.
Thursday July 28th. Sailed for Boston on board Palace steamer Bristol. It has five decks beautifully fitted up and carries a splendid band. We are sailing down what you would think was a river but is an arm of the sea with little bays all the way down, something like Sydney Harbour. Studded with gentlemen’s villas, and as we are sailing down I count about 50 boats going out with us, mostly sailing boats. They tell me that it is about 120 miles before we get to the open sea.
Bristol was a side-wheel paddle steamer of 2962 gross tons, launched April 4, 1866. It was destroyed by fire at the Newport dockside, on December 30, 1888. Its luxurious accommodation had earned it the title “Palace”.
Friday July 29th. After a very pleasant sail we arrived at a place called Fall River. At 4 o’clock in the morning took train from there to Boston. Arrived at Boston 7 a.m. Had a look through the town, it is a very fine town with a population of over 300000. Took coach to Lynn which is about eleven miles from Boston. Saw Mr. Colbath’s brother. He first took me through the town. This is the Paradise of shoe makers. There are large blocks of buildings six and seven storeys high, and there are about 100 of them manufacturing boots. They will turn out over 100000 pairs per day. He took me through one of them, and it is wonderful how they get through them. It takes about twelve men to make one pair of boots. They work in teams. I have made a few notes of some of the machines I thought useful. Kays Sole Tacker which tacks the sole after it has been lasted in a few seconds price 4 pounds, Bencells Patent Trimmer for trimming round the edges which is also done in a few seconds price 60 pounds, Fitifeila and Dodges edge setter price 50 pounds, Swain and Fuller sand paper buffer price 20 pounds. Came back to Boston and wound up this day’s amusement going to Oakland Gardens, a fine garden lit up by electric light, with different kinds of amusement. There was one very large pavilion with a good negro and comedy entertainment.
Not surprisingly after 139 years, I have found no reference on line to the boot-making machinery manufacturers Kays, Buncells, Fitifeila and Dodge, and Swain and Fuller. I have not probed deeply. I expect that there are no longer any boot-makers in Boston, certainly not in the close-in suburb of Lynn.
Saturday July 30th. Went out to Hyde Park and saw Mr. Raymond’s brother. I shall never forget his kindness to me, both he and his wife could not have been more kind to me if I had been his brother. I stayed with them all night. The following day he spent with me showing me through the town. One of the principal places he took me to was a bank where his son is at work. It was built thoroughly fire proof, built of marble, and one of the finest buildings that ever I saw. In the afternoon he took me to the Boston Museum where there was an Opera Company playing The Mascot. It is a fine house and they had a very good company. After spending a very pleasant day I said good-bye to Mr. Raymond and started on my journey for Chicago at six o’clock, July 30th. I have taken a sleeping car and they are very comfortable.
Sunday July 31st. After a good night’s rest we got up and had breakfast, there is a dining car travels along with us. The country that we are now travelling through is nearly all under cultivation, principally oats, wheat, Indian corn and potatoes. We are running along the side of a canal just now where they bring down large quantities of timber. Stopped a short time at a large manufacturing town called Rochester, with a fine river running through it. Here you see a fine fall of water called Genesee Falls. Arrived at Buffalo, the American side of the Niagara Falls. We stayed here for half an hour. I went down and had a look at the Falls from the suspension bridge, but the finest view that we had was on the Canadian side and it was beautiful. There was the river stretching away as far as the eye could see, and the Falls right in front of us shooting up clouds of spray, and the sun shining on it gave it a grand effect. With my glasses I could see a small boat with two men in it just above the rapids. Thought they were almost too close to be safe, it would be sudden death to them if they came over the Falls, nothing could live in the whirlpool of water that is below the Falls. The next place we arrived at was called Le Trout where there was a large river we had to cross. They put the whole train on a large steamboat. The river was about a mile across.
Monday August 1st. We arrived at Chicago at nine o’clock p.m. Just before we got in we saw Lake Michigan, a very large lake, so large that we cannot see the other side. First thing that I did on arrival at the hotel, which is a very large one, was to have a bath as you get very dirty travelling here by rail, and I felt very much better after it. There is a bathroom off each bedroom. Hotels in America are something grand. The next thing that I did was to go and get my ticket for San Francisco. I could have bought it cheaper in Glasgow. After, a ride through the city, and it is the finest city that I have yet seen in America. It is quite a new city, it was nearly all burned down in 1871, and now has a population of half a million. At night I went to the theatre and saw the Sensational Drama of the World. It was one of those blood and thunder pieces, and I did not think much of it. Coming from Boston I made the acquaintance of a gentleman who had a flax mill in Kentucky. We kept together while in Chicago and I spent the time very pleasantly. We exchanged cards, he said it was quite possible that he might visit me in Australia.
The Great Chicago Fire of October 8thto 10th1871 killed 300 people, left more than 100000 homeless, and devastated 3.3 square miles of the city destroying 17500 buildings including much of the central district.
Tuesday August 2nd. Started again on my journey for San Francisco. It takes five days from Chicago and if possible I will go straight through. We are passing through some very rich agricultural country, large fields of Indian corn. This is a fine part of the country, fine soil and large rivers. We have just crossed the Mississippi at a place called Rock Island. A very large river, at this part it is about a mile wide.
Wednesday August 3rd. After a good rest we reached a place called Council Bluffs where we changed carriages and stayed there three hours. We have now crossed the Missouri River, another fine river, about half a mile wide. Stopped forty minutes at Omaha. It is very warm here and reminds me of towns you see in Queensland. We are travelling over the Prairies, beautiful flat plains covered with natural grasses which grow abundantly.
Thursday August 4th. After another good night’s rest we arrived at a place called Sidney where we had breakfast. It is a small town in the centre of large cattle stations. Since we left Omaha we have been travelling uphill and are now 4073 feet above the level of the sea.
We are now at the top of the Rocky Mountains at a place called Sherman, 8242 feet above the level of the sea. A wild looking place, great rocks standing by themselves looking like monuments. We had a very heavy thunderstorm here passing over the Mountains. I saw a prairie dog, very much like a possum only much larger. We also saw an antelope, a very pretty animal something like a deer but not so large. There were several shots fired at it from the train but it got away.
Friday August 5th. We are coming down the Rocky Mountains, a barren country and good for nothing. It is all sand without any vegetation. Along this part of the line they have snow sheds, wooden tunnels to keep the snow off the line. In the distance we see high mountains covered with snow. For some time we have been travelling through some wild looking country down a valley with high rocks on each side of us. Some of them two and three hundred feet high, and at some places you would think they were hanging over the train. They have different names, Hanging Rock, Finger Rock, and Castle Rocks. We have just passed a place called The Devil’s Slide. This rock runs to the top of the mountain with an opening up the centre. It is said that you can slide from the top to the bottom, but I do not think the devil himself would care about the slide. We meet a lot of Indians here. Their skin is a dark red and some of them dress in gay colours. The women carry their children in a kind of cradle, and in their habits are something like our Australian natives and not over clean.
Saturday August 6th. We are now at Salt Lake City, the Mormons’ country. The train runs along the banks of the Lake for several miles. Thirty-three years ago the whole of the country a thousand miles in any direction was uninhabitable and almost unknown to white people. Now it is a very prosperous place. Arrived at Carlin, sent telegram to Willie. We are now within twenty-four hours ride of Dixon and I am glad it is near the end. Railway travelling is very tiresome. We are now crossing the Nevada Mountains, a very wild country. We follow the course of the river through a pass with mountains on each side of us covered with fine trees. Snow falls very heavy here in winter and they have snow sheds 40 miles long to keep the snow from drifting on to the line.
Dixon is a city in California, 23 miles north-east of the State capital, Sacramento – which, in turn, is 88 miles inland from and to the north-east of San Francisco.
Sunday August 7th. We arrived at Dixon 7 p.m. Willie was at the station waiting for me. We recognised one another about the same time, and it was a very happy meeting. Willie explained to me his reasons for not writing, he has a great many troubles. From the train we went to his home, and he introduced me to his wife, who is a very nice woman, such a woman as any man might feel proud of. Her whole thought is to make him happy, and he is very fond of her. I shall never forget her kindness to me. We have some very pleasant evenings. [This sentence is the first direct evidence that each day’s entry was not necessarily written by McBean contemporaneously.] She plays the piano beautifully and Willie sings a very good song.
Here there is an unexplained break in the diary, which resumes on…………
Sunday August 14th. On the 14thwent to San Francisco and were there for three days. The first place we went to was Haverly’s United Mastodon Minstrels, the finest Negro group that ever I saw. There were forty of them, amongst them Billy Emerton. It was their last night and the house was full.
Monday August 15th. Willie got a buggy and pair and drove us out to the Cliff House, a distance of ten miles. Most of the way was through a very fine park. The Cliff House is on the seacoast, and from here you have a fine view of the Pacific. We drove along the sea beach and from there to the hotel. The hotel is built on a rock close to the water in front of which are two large rocks which were covered with sea lions, large brutes, something like seals. Some of them are said to weigh over seven hundredweight. They make a loud noise, like the barking of dogs. It was a grand sight to see them swimming in the water. From there we drove back to town. San Francisco is very hilly. We went to a place called Nob Hill where there are some fine gentlemen’s residences, and where you have a fine view all over the town. The hills are so steep here that they have to draw the street cars by ropes driven by steam. In the evening we went to the Mechanic Fair and Exhibition, which is held annually, showing the different industries of San Francisco. It was lit up by electric light and was altogether a fine show.
Cliff House has had a number of incarnations over its 157-year history. The one visited by McBean in 1881 had been built in 1863. A wing of the building was destroyed when a schooner ran aground nearby, then exploded. It was re-built; and then burned down in 1894. Its replacement, of extraordinary ornate architecture, survived the 1906 San Francisco earthquake unscathed but was destroyed by fire in 1909. There have been three versions since.
Tuesday August 16th. The next day we went to a place called Woodward’s Gardens, a very fine place beautifully laid out with flowers, with an Aquarium, and all kinds of wild beasts. Same day we visited the Chinese quarter. They have a great hold here and are treated in what was once the best part of the town. There are about 40000 of them living here, and are employed in boot making, tailoring, and watch making, and they also do all the washing and ironing, and are used in private houses as servants instead of women. They have a large boot factory of their own and are making the boot trade warm for Americans. In the evening went to Tivoli Gardens Theatre. They were playing the opera of Satinilla and they had a very good company. Here you can drink and smoke while they are playing.
Wednesday August 17th. Willie spared no expense in showing me round, and would not allow me to pay for anything. San Francisco is a gay town. Theatres and all places of amusement are open on Sunday and it is the most immoral town that ever I was in. After seeing all that was to be seen in San Francisco we came back to Dixon where I will now rest until I leave for Australia.
Thursday August 18th. Dixon is a small town with a population of about 1000. Willie has a fine store with a good stock and is doing very well. He is going to take the shop next door and going into groceries.
There is a further unexplained break in the diary, from August 19thto August 27th.
Sunday August 28th. I said good-bye to Willie. I felt it very much leaving him, not knowing if we will ever see one another again. I will always remember with pleasure the many kind friends that I made in Dixon, first among them Lilly, Willie’s wife, and her relations. Their kindness and hospitality I will never forget. We sailed away in the S.S. Zealandia 2730 tons, Henry Chevalier, Master, at half past 2 p.m. Passed through the Golden Gate at half past 3 p.m., the entrance to San Francisco Harbour, and as we pass the Cliff House it makes me feel quite sad when I think it was only the other week Willie and I spent such a pleasant day together. Pilot left us at 4 o’clock. We are now in the Pacific Ocean and I shall be glad when we get to the end of our journey. I long to see the little ones at home. As usual before going to bed was sick.
The S.S. Zealandia, an American 4-masted sail-steamer, was launched 1875. The manifest of McBean’s voyage lists 38 saloon passengers (of which McBean is one) and 23 steerage passengers – 61 passengers all up - with a total crew of 99, comprising 37 officers, able seamen and engineers, 27 stewards and “general servants”, all British, and 35 firemen, coal passers, and kitchen staff, all of whom were from China. The Zealandia ran aground and was wrecked off Southport, England, on April 2nd1917 on route from New York to Liverpool by which time she had become a carrier of general cargo with crew of 47. Two of them perished.
Monday August 29th. Weather fine. We are out of the tracks of ships and not likely to see much between here and New Zealand.
Wednesday August 31st. We had a full table this morning. There are 96 of us in the cabin [presumably meaning Class]. Amongst them are the Boston Quintette. They are coming to Melbourne. They are said to be very good. Distance run 312 miles.
Thursday September 1st. Weather is getting warm. Had our first sweep on the run the ship would make. My number won it.
Sunday September 4th. Sighted Honolulu, a wild looking coast. And as we pass along we see large groves of coca nut and banana trees. We pass an extinct volcano, there are several of them on this island. We landed at Honolulu, a very pretty little town, and with four of my ship mates went for a ramble through the town. The inhabitants here are English and American. There are also a great many Chinamen. The buildings are mostly wood. The King here has a very fine palace built of stone. The natives are called Kanakas. In features they resemble Chinamen but a much larger race of people. There are some fine made men among them and they are very industrious and grow cotton and sugar. Also bananas and dates, some of which we saw growing. Dates grow in large bunches like grapes. It is a very pretty island. We gathered a lot of seeds of trees which I intend bringing home. After exploring the town we went up a mountain, about 300 feet high, on the top of which was an extinct volcano, and had a beautiful view all over the island. There is always plenty of rain here, and the hills and valleys are green. I never saw anything where growth was so abundant. After a ramble of six hours we returned to the ship. We left Honolulu at 5 o’clock.
Wednesday September 7th. Made a good run to-day. Distance run 319 miles.
Friday September 9th. Crossed the line this morning. Beautiful cool breeze. Distance run 310 miles.
Monday September 12th. Passed the Navigator Island this morning at 4 o’clock. It is a small island. It was too dark to see anything on it. We have been shipping large quantities of water all night. The sea is very rough.
The Navigator Islands were later named Samoa.
Friday September 16th. On account of the ship crossing the 180 degrees of longitude we jump a day. We passed the Island of Sunda, one of the group of Friendly Islands.
Saturday September 17th. We expect to get into Auckland to-morrow. We had a theatrical performance on board. It was called Little Toddlikins and went off very well.
Sunday September 18th. Arrived in Auckland at half past 6 p.m. They have a fine harbour here. Had a ramble through the city which is very hilly. After a stay of six hours started on our journey. We are now running north along the coast of New Zealand and expect to be within sight of land for another day. As we sail along the coast we can see large clouds of steam rising from the hot springs.
Monday September 19th. Lost sight of New Zealand this morning. Distance run 307 miles.
There you have it. The distance runs for the next two days were 314 miles and 296 miles respectively. There is nothing further, and no mention of arrival in Melbourne.
So the reason for McBean’s trip? There is no specific diary reference to the purpose but I’ll buy that it was a business trip to Boston, with the opportunity taken to catch up with relatives along the way. The long sojourn in Britain suggests that he was staying with family, and the embarkation ex Glasgow, seen off by cousin Jeanie, suggests that he had been staying in Scotland for much of the time. The extended visit to Dixon near San Francisco with Willie also suggests a family connection.
But my sleuthing instincts are tweaked by McBean’s August 28thdiary entry: “I long to see the little ones at home”. An understandable entry when turning for home, but it’s the only diary reference to McBean’s domestic situation. It highlights the question of why the trip was so extended. If McBean was such a family man that he enjoyed catching up with remoter relatives – for 9 weeks in Britain and for 3 weeks based at Dixon, California - why was he so committed from the outset to spending, all up, 175 days away from his “little ones”?
Gary Andrews
Dad this is an excellent read! I love diary entry reading, and your comments were useful additions. I suppose particularly interesting to imagine this journey as the fellow recording it is my ancestor! Xx
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