Continuing John Mathews' travel diary..........
THE DIARY - Marseilles to London
Wednesday, May 4th 1955
Oronsay, Marseilles
We had two periods of school in the morning because we did not berth in Marseilles until 12.00 noon. At our morning assembly Mr. Hutchinson warned us that those whose uniforms were untidy, dirty, or not pressed properly would not be going ashore. We finished school about 11.00 a.m. and everyone sped off to get ready. I was dressed by about 11.30 and went up on deck to watch us come into port.
Near Marseilles there are many rocky islands with not a scrap of vegetation. On one of these is the famous, or infamous, Chateau d'if. It was in this fortress which Dumas chose to imprison his Man in the Iron Mask and The Count of Monte Cristo. With my binoculars I was able to distinguish the round towers and slits from the mass of craggy rock.
It was almost time for an early luncheon at 12.00 noon and we were almost into the dock area, but I strolled down to the stern of the ship and was lucky enough to see the ancient Roman aqueduct causeway spanning a distant valley. Then to lunch.
After lunch we went up on deck just in time to see the final docking processes being carried out. Blue dungareed "wharfies" with peaked caps lounged around the legs of four massive mobile steel cranes. There was a distribution of mail and I received four including ones from Graeme Willcox and Nana.
We were all issued with green landing cards and told we would be split up into five groups. I was lucky enough to be the first one in Mr. Tregenza's group. We filed off the gangway and through an enormous Customs hanger. I did not see one Customs officer. We could have walked ashore with a pistol in our boot and our pockets full of opium. In the hanger was a money-changing office, a Post Office, and a shop.
Out the front of the hanger we were all lined up and we had a chance to look about us. There was a large backwater surrounded by rusty remains of ships, and in the distance hills with houses dotted on them. Buses were lined up and after a bit of waiting we piled into two buses along with many other passengers. These buses were enormous vehicles with a curious seating arrangement of 24, leaving standing room for 101. These numbers were stated on the licence plate.
There were signs in the bus such as Ne parlez pas au conducteure etc. Mr. Tregenza and Mr. Johnstone tried to buy the tickets for us all from the conductor, who had no English. Their French was almost limited to oui et non. With a bit of help from our "brilliant" French they at length bought 60 60 franc tickets into Marseilles. The exchange rate was stated at 980 francs to the pound sterling on board ship, and we were told that we would all be allowed to change two 2/- for 100 francs. In the trip in on the bus I tried to persuade Mr.Tregenza that I needed more than 100 francs to spend.
We were whizzing along beside the docks for several miles. They are very extensive and every few hundred yards there were large signboards showing the layout of that area of the port. There was an enormous number of ships in port, most of them French. In the port we saw quite a few dry docks, and large warehouses. Along by the wharves we passed quite a lot of people on bicycles, and we saw our first trams. They were painted yellow and blue and several small cars were joined together in each tram (of course, all the traffic was on the right-hand side of the road).
The bus turned up the Rue de la Republique and we saw all the different shops - la boucherie, la boulangerie etc. - and the General Post Office. The bus stopped near the Vieux Port and we all stepped out to assemble on a corner. In the old port were all the tiny fishing boats and yachts, and a jetty where boats left for the Chateau d'if. While we were waiting for the leaders to finish their conference Max Robinson got into conversation with a man in German, and they talked quickly for several minutes until Mr. Tregenza came and called his group together ready to move off.
We turned left up La Canebiere, which is the main street in Marseilles, and marvelled at the similarity to the streets back home.
There were large department stores, jewellery stores, the French equivalent of Woolworths, cinemas, hotels, open-air cafes, and news stalls simply covered with papers and magazines. Most of the people we passed in the street looked at our blazers and said "Australie". They seemed to think we were a sporting team of some sort.
We went into Cook's Bureau to change our money to francs because Mr. Tregenza did not have enough to change it for us. Here the exchange rate was, for silver, 2/6 for a hundred francs. I changed 9/6 and only got 380 francs. There was a higher rate of exchange for notes than silver.
The cinemas were showing quite familiar films. We saw The Sign of the Pagan advertised outside one theatre.
At the head of La Canebiere we came to a monument to the French soldiers from Provence who fought in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870. It was of white stone and had figures of soldiers standing on top surrounded by clusters of tricolours. It was only after I had taken a photo of it that I realised it was my last one and I had not brought a new film. Curses!! For across the road was the beautiful Church of St. Vincent de Paul, and my camera useless.
We crossed and went through the wrought iron gates, past a simple statue of Jeanne d'Arc, and up the steps to the massive wooden carved doors. The church had two spires near the front. It was in the French Gothic style with equilateral arches. Inside it was very quiet and dignified, although dark because the beautiful intricately designed stained glass windows were rather narrow. The windows were a fair way apart in the aisle but were closer in the clerestory. The roof was supported by clustered columns, each cluster being about six feet in diameter. The floor was tiled in tiny squares of white brown and blue making up a beautiful mosaic pattern. The roof must have been almost 100 feet high.
Leaving the solemnity of the church we went across the street to an open-air cafe where Mr. Tregenza ordered Coca-Cola for us all. Signs of Buvez Coca-Cola were set up all over the place. The proprietor charged 60 francs per head for our Coca-Colas. We had fun talking to him and to a boy who came round selling peanuts.
The cafe was under peaceful looking trees in a square, and we went over the other side of it where there were two stalls. On one stall was a man selling goldfish, one in a plastic bag for 100 francs and two in a plastic bag for 200 francs. He also had turtles and we thought them very cute. They were 200 francs. I asked him comment s'appellent-ils? and he went through their names in French, Spanish, Italian, German, English and Portuguese.
Mr. Tregenza asked a man who was selling rugs the way to Notre Dame de la Garde and he said we could go in a bus for 400 francs or walk in ten minutes. We believed his first statement, but not his second. Anyhow we started off up a narrow street up the hill. Half way up I went into a shop just for the fun of it. I tried to buy an apple but apparently apples are rare in France, so I bought a banana instead. They were sold by the kilo but the girl, a very pretty one too, cut one off and weighed it. It came to twelve francs. I saw Coca-Cola in there for 30 francs per bottle.
Up at the top of the hill was a wall commemorating the start of the first successful flight across the Mediterranean in 1870 or 1880 - by balloon. There was a beautiful peaceful square surrounded by plane trees on top of the hill and we walked around two sides of it. While some of us looked at a newsstand Mr. Tregenza talked to an amiable Frenchman and his wife, and they suggested that we visit Longchamps Museum. So off we went across the square, passing merry little French children who were playing around and getting rides in a jingling donkey cart.
We hurried through the streets and the eyes darted here and there trying to see everything we could. Apparently school was out and we met many young schoolchildren. I called out bonjour to one little chap and he grinned and sang out bonjour to me.
The Longchamps Museum turned out to be an ostentatious piece of Renaissance architecture in the Roman style. A waterfall flowed from under some enormous statuary, down into a pool at the bottom. We did not have time to go into the Museum, so we had to hurry back again to rendezvous with the rest of the contingent.
On the way back I went into a shop to try and buy a film. The fellow had only Plus-X and he wrote the price down as 150 and I thought it was 750 so I didn't buy one. While running to catch up, the strap on my camera broke and I was lucky to be able to stop it falling to the ground.
At our assembly point we heard from the other groups that some of them had done nothing, and some of them had been to Notre Dame. After the assembly we split up, and Mr. Tregenza told us to forget any hope of going to see Notre Dame. So we made the most of it and went along the stalls deciding how to spend our francs. There were several scent stalls along the street, and when one of the vendors sprayed Kingsley Purdie with perfume I decided I would spend 100 francs on a small bottle of perfume.
I was intrigued by the French Mickey Mouse comics so I bought two to take back home. Then Mr. Tregenza said we would go in search of the Cathedral, so we set out towards it. We saw many old buildings and one old turret affair which had been built around, and looked many centuries old. In one section there was a lovely modern flat being built. Back in the old port we saw the magnificent Notre Dame de la Garde outlined against the azure sky, and we were all sad we could not go to see it properly.
However off we hurried and in a few minutes we came to La Cathedrale. It was an imposing building with four domes of the Renaissance period in the Romanesque style. Inside the decoration was terrific. The walls were of alternate layers of pink and white marble. Thick piers and single columns supported the roof. The windows were of stained glass and were of simple design. The tasteful use of gold decoration touches the whole church right into the class of near perfection.
We left the Cathedral and as it was getting late we waited for a bus there. In a few minutes one came, and the thirteen of us piled in. After a few minutes I was able to sit down in one of the sponge rubber seats. The bus stopped a fair bit short of the boat and we had to walk. We were awfully tired, but when we saw Oronsayin the distance we all broke into a sprint and I was first back on board, just in time for dinner.
After dinner I tried to start my reports but I didn't get very far. There was a French choir coming on board at 8.45 but I went ashore first and bought a 10 franc and a 5 franc stamp.
On "D" Deck it was very crowded and I had to stand outside the glass wall to see. The French people were dressed in folk costumes and their singing was beautiful. Some of the men did a sword dance, but they were crowded and could not do the whole lot of it. After a blow upon deck I went below to bed.
Why did we have to be leaving France for good on this trip? I had really enjoyed myself ashore.
John's Marseille report from the Young Sun:
Marseilles - Ici en parle Francais.
We had barely set foot on French soil before we found that in France one must speak French.
Not a word of English could the bus conductor speak. From the start we had to call on our French lessons to ask for 60 fares from the port to the city.
In the main street, La Canabiere, were big emporiums, chain stores and picture theatres showing familiar films.
But along the pavements were the open-air cafes for which France is renowned.
We sat down, sipped a soft drink known the world over, and absorbed the atmosphere as France strolled by.
The cafe accounting system fascinated us.
The waiter carried out each drink on a little saucer.
He placed the drink on the table and stacked the saucers on one side.
Then we saw that a different coloured saucer was served with each type of drink, according to price.
When the time came for l'addition - the bill - the waiter merely counted the saucers.
The day went too quickly.
There was a halting conversation with an amiable Frenchman, a chat with a party of children just out of school, a pleasant half-hour buying postcards with our remaining francs.
Then we were on our way back to the ship, to set sail for Gibraltar - and England.
Thursday, May 5th 1955
Oronsay, Mediterranean Sea
I woke up feeling very tired and as it was about 7.40 I thought I would skip breakfast. I added a bit to my report on Marseilles and when the boys came back from breakfast I got dressed and tidied up my bed.
I was late for parade.
Our periods were rather boring so I went on with a bit of my report. Fog. I did a fair bit of washing. By lunch time I was really hungry and I ate well.
After lunch I got stuck into it and finished my reports on Naples and Marseilles. Then I started to write letters as fast as I cold go. I nearly finished one when we had to go off for lessons. The fog made us slow down.
Our singing period was last and we had a job to get the piano so we were late. We were all paid 3/-. It was now 6.15. I raced down and managed to finish two letters before dinner at 6.45.
After dinner we went to see Beau Brummel on "D" Deck, and Elizabeth Taylor was the talk of the cabin.
Friday, May 6th 1955
Oronsay, Gibraltar
We rose as soon as we were awake, soon after 6.00 a.m. As breakfast was at 6.30 a.m. we had to hurry to make it, but we did. After breakfast, when I went to replace the film in my camera I found that it had wound onto the spool crookedly and was ruined.
We assembled on the port side of "E" Deck where we were issued with launch tickets and later our mail. I received four letters including one which Mum had posted to reach me at Colombo.
In front of us was the white wall of the old fort, with the road going under an archway where the gates used to be. Near the old gateway was a table with ladies selling R.S.P.C.A. badges to passers-by. There were hawkers there selling the same type of souvenirs as the tiny boats which had soon come round Oronsay when she anchored. They were selling such things as fans and metal bracelets.
Through the archway and we came to the military barrack. We were astonished by the youth of all the soldiers until we realised that they were all British National Service trainees.
In the narrow streets of the town there were many shops selling souvenirs, cameras, etc.
I saw one poor little mule trying to pull this great cart full of wood, and with two men sitting on it. The men evidently believed in making their donkey work. We went into several shops but I did not buy anything because I owed Kerry Rogers 2/6 out of the 3/- I had for aerogrammes.
Mr. Johnstone took us up the back of the city towards the huge towering part of the Rock. Of course we did not get anywhere near the top but we did get high enough to take some good photos. We saw part of an old house which I thought might have been Moorish, but did not see any of the really good things because there was just not time.
Saturday, May 7th 1955
Oronsay, Bay of Biscay
We were all very tired when we woke up. I was very full too, so I decided I would miss breakfast. I went and ironed two shirts instead.
At the morning assembly we were told that there would be no school and we could use the time to wash and iron, and pack our suitcases. We cut the cake and it was very nice except the icing, which was most sickly. Trevor Mathers was sick and Grant Lindley was not feeling too well.
After lunch I ironed another shirt and then came down to the cabin to sleep. We all slept from 1.30 until 5.15 and when I awoke I thought it was next day. At 6.00 p.m. there was a singing session in the Children's Play Space.
After dinner I went up to "E" Deck and wrote two letters. Then I thought I would have an early night so I came down and went to bed.
Sunday, May 8th 1955
Oronsay, English Channel
In the morning I had a fight with Bob Martin when he tried to pull me out of bed. He was not successful. I was a little bit late for breakfast. In the morning we were able to finish our packing. I spent over an hour waiting for the iron. Pay of one guinea. At lunch I ate more than usual.
From 1.30 until 3.30 there was a rest period. But we didn't rest much. We had pillow fights in the dark and then went round to other cabins "to pass the time of day".
After our rest I went to afternoon tea for the first time in more than a fortnight. Then I played table tennis for about half an hour, and then I ironed my trousers ready for the morrow.
We paid Len our cabin steward 30 shillings as a tip. He told us he would be coming back on Otranto with us. Two pounds to Billy.
I had my first salt water bath, and at dinner I went right through the menu. Evening: community singing "E" Deck. Choir: M. Robinson, B. Moore, A. Collier, and "negroes"
Monday, May 9th 1955
Oronsay, Tilbury. London
Oronsay berthed in Tilbury docks at 2.00 a.m. but of course we were all asleep. I was up and dressed by soon after 6.00 a.m. and went up to see what Tilbury looked like. What a dreary sight! Rain drizzling down from dull grey skies; and acres of water, dock sheds, cranes, factories, and ships, "decorated" the landscape. As yet the scene was well nigh deserted. The P. & O. boat Himalaya was berthed astern of us, and the Strathnaver on past that. The wharf gradually livened up as the dock workers came on, and a few early risers arrived behind the barrier to wait for friends.
Breakfast was at 7.30 and we all ate well. I shook hands with Billy and said good-bye and thank-you to him. I finished packing and did everything up. Now the waiting commenced.
There was an assembly just after breakfast when Mr. Hutchinson told us the details for the day. Then we just mooned around until a further assembly. Most of the time we spent watching the baggage being unloaded from the baggage rooms to the wharf. The work was done swiftly and efficiently with little regard for cases.
At the next assembly I found that I would be billeted with Bill Moore, and I also got a letter from Mum. By about 10.15 we had another assembly. Mr. Hutchinson had met Brigadier Stokes, and we were to go down to our cabins to await the order to move off through the First Class quarters.
We started to move at last and we said good-bye to Cabin 588-593. We had to wait for a while in First Class but at last we were ashore and we sat on our cases in the enormous Customs hanger. By-passing the regular Customs we were loading our gear onto a van by about noon. Then we went to catch our buses. They were luxurious jobs with sponge rubber seats etc.
Bruce Dixon's pen-friend and his mother were there and they walked along beside the bus. We saw our cabin steward walking along with his girlfriend. The other bus was bogged in gravel, and we had to push it out. At last we were on our way and the buses set off on a circuitous route to London via Tilbury.
We went through several miles of docks just before getting past the final Customs check. We went across a canal with locks in it, by a steel bridge. The first ship to sail under the bridge was the old Oronsay in 1929. Further on we passed quite a few enormous searchlights standing near some grim looking tanks which had just returned from the Middle East.
Tilbury was a nice place, with quaint houses with television aerials perched on high every now and again. There were quite miles of factories docks and cranes, but we were soon speeding through farm country towards London about 20 miles away. The fields were beautiful and green and the farmhouses presented the perfect example of the typical English farm. We noticed that vegetables were grown extensively whereas in Australia they are confined mostly to river flat areas. One of the districts we passed through was the Borough of Barking.
In London our driver was unable to point out many of the sights because he was from Edinburgh. However we were able to see the Houses of Parliament, Trafalgar Square, St. James's Palace, and many other places on the way. Bill Moore had been expecting skyscrapers but none of the city buildings were more than eight or ten storeys high.
The buses stopped in St. James's Street, and after a little sojourn when we went up the wrong side street, we arrived at Overseas House, the world headquarters of the Overseas League. Inside we were soon taken up to the Room of India and Pakistan, panelled in silver-grey wood which looked golden coloured to me. Here we sat down at tables - and then had to walk, get a plate full of food, and go back and eat it. The salad was nice, but there was not enough of it.
There was a speech by the president of the Overseas League, and Mr. Hutchinson responded for us. After a distribution of the mail we were free for a few minutes. Bill Moore and I went down the street and got a London pamphlet from the Tourist Bureau. Then we walked down to St. James's Palace, which was being guarded by the Coldstream Guards, with buttons in pairs and red plume on right side of bearskin. The marching and drilling of the sentries was perfectly synchronised.
Then we walked around some more streets. The London "business" dress was very noticeable - bowler 'at, rolled umbrella, attache case - worn by all who worked in the city. Then we had to go back to Overseas House before walking down to catch our buses near St. James's Palace. I was put on the wrong bus. On our spin through the city we saw the National Gallery, Piccadilly Circus, and many other things.
We arrived at Australia House about 3.45. The building was started in 1913 and completed in the lavish style of the period with materials brought from Australia. Marble was everywhere inside. We went downstairs where a U-shaped arrangement of tables held our tea. Sir Thomas White made a very effective speech of welcome, and we all felt at home as soon as we started to eat. My photo was taken about four times by a newspaper photographer as I was sitting near the end of the table. Sir Thomas White was in some of them. We went up winding stairs for a long way to the roof, where we looked out at the famous skyline with St. Paul's of course dominating it.
Then we went down and the buses took us to the Wyndham Ashley Mission where we were soon introduced to our billeters. Bill and I were to go with Mr. and Mrs. Harris. We found our luggage downstairs and we walked a little way and then caught a 24 bus which dropped us only a little way from their flat [in Churchill Gardens]. We were shown up the lift, and into a very lovely bedroom. Bill and I tossed for beds and I won the big one.
We were talking to Mr. Harris and he told us all about the flats being a project to save fuel and space, which are the two things England needs most these days. He told us he was in the Grenadier Guards for 13 years, and showed us a picture of himself.
We decided we would like to go for a walk. We went first to Buckingham Palace, with the beautiful statue of Queen Victoria in front. The Coldstreams were on duty there too. We saw a plaque to the memory of Gunner Sullivan, an Australian VC who was accidentally killed while serving in the Australian Coronation Contingent 1937.
Round the base of the monument to Queen Victoria was a shallow pool with three beautiful ducks in it. The Coldstream Guards on duty wear scarlet coats, bearskins, and navy pants, as do all the other Foot Guards. However the buttons of the Grenadiers are single, the Coldstreams are double, the Scots are triple, the Irish in fours, and the Welsh in fives.
The Mall and the roads about the Palace were nice red-toned asphalt roads. Round the Queen Victoria monument are gateways, each one representing a country of the British Empire.
After watching the Guards for a while we crossed the road and saw Ron Blackwell with his billeter. We went through the massive black and gold gates leading to Green Park. Through the green lawns lined with slender plane trees we walked through flocks of pigeon, and into Piccadilly. Here Bill bought a bag of peanuts from a barrow boy. In Piccadilly we saw all the fine hotels and buildings. Round Piccadilly Circus with its statue of Eros we saw some of the largest neon signs ever. One Coca-Cola sign must have been about 30' high.
We were soon in Coventry Street and on into Leicester Square. Here there were all the fashionable cinemas: The Odeon, Warner Bros., The Hippodrome, Empire, Gaumont, Leicester Square Theatre, London Pavilion. The live shows were at: The Criterion, Duke of York's, Haymarket. We stayed in the Square for a while watching the bright lights, then we walked to the Underground at Piccadilly and paid our fourpence fares to Victoria Station into the machines.
There are two underground systems. The Tube, the deepest one, is at least 100 feet deep, but the Underground sees daylight now and then. We went via both, via Charing Cross Station to Victoria Station. Then after a brisk walk we were back at the Churchill Gardens. There are now eight blocks, each of 70 to 80 flats, with more to be built. They are named after poets: Gilbert, Sullivan, Chippendale, Keats, Chaucer, Shelley, Sheridan, Elgar, Marryat. There are all types of families catered for, with 2-, 3- and 4-bedroom flats, maisonettes, and small flats for old couples and single people. Rent is based on income.
We went with Mrs. Machie to watch her television. We saw a live artist show to commemorate V.E. Day, with Jack Warner, Vera Lynn, Richard Dimbleby, Horne, Chester, and many others. Back with Mrs. Harris, supper of cakes and tea and went to bed about 11.00 p.m. We wrote our diaries until about 11.30 and then we turned our lights out.
Tuesday, May 10th 1955
24 Gilbert, Churchill Gardens, Westminster SW1
About 6.30 I woke and started to write my diary. Mr. Harris brought a cup of tea for us very early. We went to breakfast in our dressing gowns but we dressed soon after, preparatory to going out. Mrs. Harris said we could come back to get ourselves some lunch if we wanted to, and we thanked her very much.
It was drizzling a bit, but we didn't take our overcoats. We wended our way through the streets past Victoria Station into Buckingham Palace Road.
Arriving at Imperial Scout Headquarters about 8.50 we had to wait for a few moments before it opened. I showed my letter for Miss J.V. Meads to one of the sellers in the shop and we arrived at the office but she was not in yet. So off we went to Baden-Powell's Room. What a grand collection of trophies and souvenirs!! Orders and decorations from most of the countries of the world, which B-P earned. The first proofs of Scouting for Boys, the flag that flew over Mafeking, everything so full of history, and unique. Pictures and papers in tribute to a sailor boy, ex scout, of 16 years who won the V.C. When mortally wounded in the Battle of Jutland, this boy stood by his gun, with all the crew dead, waiting for orders, with only his own "courage and God's hand" to support him.
There were Scout postage stamps, B-P's walking sticks, and gifts to him from Scouts all over the world. The history of scouting with all souvenirs was illustrated by souvenirs of the Brownsea Island Camp and early events in the movement.
V.C. winners who had been scouts, and pictures of the modern scout leaders, all found their place under a beautiful portrait of B-P. The artistic side of B-P shows in his doodlings on programs of board meetings and odd scraps of paper.
Out of B-P's Room and back to Miss Meads' room; she was not there. Bill went downstairs, or rather down lift, and I tried again. This time she was there. I gave Miss Meads the letter from Mr. Nash and she said she would introduce me to the Chief HQ Commissioner.
So I went down to see him and I was having a fine chat with him when in walked.........Lord Rowallan - the Chief Scout! I shook hands with him, and he said he had heard of my uncle. Then I had a further chat with the Chief HQ Commissioner, and went back with Miss Meads. Bill joined me.
Then we met Mr. Bullen, from the Enquiry Desk downstairs, who said he would show us about. We were down in the Scout Shop when the Overseas Secretary spotted our blazers as he was going through and spirited us off to sign the visitor book in his office. He said it would be an idea if we could go to see Boy Scout, a pageant run by Ralph Reader, and to let him know if we would be in London from 13th to 18th June. We went back to Mr. Bullen after a while and he showed us the printing room and the conference room. In the printer's works we saw two lithographic machines and other types of small printing presses.
Back in the vestibule we saw a detachment of Coldstream Guards and a band marching to Buckingham Palace. The band was playing Our Director, and Bill said they played it at his band in Bairnsdale. We thanked Mt.Bullen and went up to the Palace and saw the patrol going round and relieving the men. Most of them had macs on as it had just been raining.
We had to be at the Wyndham Ashley Mission by 11.30 a.m. so we turned down Buckingham Palace Road and through Victoria into Vauxhall Bridge Road. About half way down we met Murray Williamson, and then we stopped at a pastrycook's and I bought two doughnuts and two buns for eight pence. We walked on down the road and then Murray said we had gone too far, so we went back and asked our way at the cake shop. Two ladies who had just taken Mostyn Rutter to the Mission guided us there. Bill and I were ticked off for not wearing our berets.
Inside Mr. Hutchinson asked us if we had any complaints and told us of the Tower trip and the social. Then we set off for the rest of the day. Bill hopped a bus, but I started running and it only beat me by a few yards.
I went to Victoria Station and paid sixpence fare for Holborn, the station nearest the British Museum. After almost getting lost in the Underground I arrived at Holborn and did not have much difficulty finding the British Museum in Bloomsbury. The building is enormous and its portico is of Ionic columns. Inside the Museum I bought a guide book for 2/-. Only about half of the Museum is open each day because it is so vast.
I wandered around to the left from the vestibule into the Roman Gallery with its busts and statues of Romans. In another Greco-Roman room there were some very beautiful statues but many of them were broken. The mausoleum friezes occupy the larger part of the next room, and they depict fights between Greeks and Amazons.
Several more rooms of statuary, and then into the famous Elgin Room which contains a great many of the metopes of the Parthenon, with battles between Lapiths and centaurs, as well as the two end sections of the East Pediment. The interiors of all the rooms of the Museum are in lovely pastel shades, and in many rooms the lighting is entirely natural.
In the Egyptian sculpture gallery are many incised carvings on the walls. Large statues and mummy cases in stone stood about in the great echoing hall. One large head of red granite (and an arm) was about four feet in diameter. The Rosetta Stone occupied a large case in the centre of the hall, and a large bound pamphlet describing it at the back of it.
Next I went to the Egyptian Room containing mummies and mummy cases. Here I met Bill once more. Some of the mummy cases had faces painted on them and they were almost all painted in brilliantly coloured designs. Some of the mummy cases were inlaid with gold. On the wall were paintings and symbols connected with Osiris and the Egyptian religious beliefs. In adjacent rooms were alabaster vessels, pottery, jewellery, toys, cubit sticks, and many things to illustrate the ancient Egyptian way of life.
On the way to the King Edward VII Gallery I went across a bridge affair containing a piece of stone money of 18 inch diameter. In that gallery were many beautiful examples of ceramics, pottery, and jewellery such as tiny statues and carvings. I was especially interested in the section on Greek vases and the Chinese china-ware with the white and blue glazing.
Downstairs I went to the Library with its hundreds of thousands of famous and obscure books. In cases about were panels displaying a marvellous stamp collection. Glass cases held displays of well-known historic books such as the first edition of Shakespeare's plays. Several cases were showing documents and books in connection with Charlotte Bronte. There were some lovely illuminated books from the East and a case of black and white impressionistic drawings by Japanese artists.
Then I went into the Manuscript Room which held some very famous and beautiful works. Lovely illuminated manuscripts of the Bible and other religious books; books on heraldry with fine intricate arms and shields, which looked as if they must have taken years to print by hand. In a small side room are all the famed versions of the Bible, some of the rarest and most valuable works in the world. Wycliffe's Bible and many versions of Tyndale's, and all leading up to the Authorised Version.
A small glass case contains the diaries and photos of the ill-fated expedition of Scott to the South Pole - with the pathetic last words of Scott: "For God's sake look after our families." The logbook of H.M.S. Victory was open at the page telling of the death of Lord Nelson. A whole set of casements holds the Magna Charta and attendant documents, while a translation of it fills four, two foot columns each six inches wide of small print.
We left at last, and went back to the vestibule where I bought a guide to London Museums and Galleries for 2/6.
We hurried off to Holborn Station, where Bill marvelled at the enormous escalators, and caught the Tube to Leicester Square. After a bit of trouble we found a cartoon theatre, paid our shilling, and went in. We saw six cartoons and an Australian Diary and enjoyed ourselves very much. At 6.00 p.m. we came out and caught a 24 bus outside the Hippodrome to bring us back to Churchill Gardens.
We had a beautiful tea of chips and sausages. After that we talked and wrote our diaries and had a bit of supper. But both Bill and I were very glad to hit the hay.
Illustrations:
# Marseilles street scene
# Marseilles street scene
# Oronsay anchored at Gibraltar
# Gibraltar street scene
# Youth Travellers at Gibraltar
# Oronsay at Gibraltar, ship-side trading
# Britain 1954-1955 "Calendar of Events" booklet
# "How to See London" booklet, 1955
To be continued..........
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