SCHOOLBOY ADVENTURE - 1955 - PART 9 of 10

 

Continuing John Mathews' travel diary.........

 

THE DIARY - London to Colombo

 

Tuesday, June 28th 1955

 

London, Tilbury, R.M.S. Otranto

 

We rose early, and after I had finished packing we had breakfast.  After we had said our farewells to Mrs. Kitson we piled into the car with Mr. Kitson to go to our rendezvous at Kensington Town Hall.  Then we said good-bye to our kind host, Lt. Col. Kitson, and staggered with our cases to the Town Hall.

 

When we left on our buses it was a very slow trip; we passed all the (now) familiar places and eventually we were on the road to Tilbury.

 

On our arrival we unloaded our luggage and, in a series of fits and starts, we eventually got aboard.  I did not see one Customs officer.  I was in a cabin with the same boys, but John Read left and Kerry Rogers arrived in his place. We had lunch on board.

 

Soon after 3.30 p.m. Otranto sailed.  Brigadier Stokes and Mr. Hitch were there to wave us farewell.  As we slipped down the Thames I realised I was at last on my way home.

Farewell Britain!

The Orient liner, Otranto, with length of 632 feet and displacement of 20,032 tons, was built at Barrow-in-Furness and launched in 1925.  Her role as a passenger liner was interrupted by requisition into war service in 1939.  She served as a troop ship; and participated in the invasion of French North Africa, and landings in Italy in 1943.  She returned to civilian service in 1948.  Her final voyage, before being scrapped, was in February 1957.   Wikipedia and other sources, including the ship's postcard in 1955, refer to Otranto as R.M.S (Royal Mail Steamship), but the daily menus use the prefix S.S. (Steamship).  The possibility that at some stage Otranto lost her role as a mail ship - say because of the wartime interruption - is not difficult to imagine, but doesn't explain the persistent references to R.M.S.  The Otranto, after 30 years at sea, was pretty tired by 1955, but from a Youth Traveller viewpoint she had the advantage (unlike Oronsay) of being a one-class vessel with ship-wide access.

  

 

Wednesday, June 29th 1955

 

Otranto, English Channel

 

I did not go to breakfast because I was too lazy to get up.  I wandered about, and at 10.00 a.m. I went to the lounge, E Deck aft, and collected my parcel from Selfridges.  When I opened it I found that two sticks of lipstick were missing.

 

At 11.00 a.m. we had an assembly and Mr. Johnstone told us about the arrangements for the trip home. Kerry Rogers was allowed to remain in our cabin.  In the afternoon I got to developing films.

 

Later there was supposed to be period but so many of the boys were sick they cancelled it.  The sea was not really rough though.

 

When I was doing films I dropped and broke my bottle of hypo.  I begged another bottle from the drink waiters at the bar.  I developed five films, and received 6/- in payment.

 

Grant, Trevor and Bill were not feeling too well, but all of us except Trevor went to see the film The Constant Husband in the forward Lounge. It was quite terrific.

 

Thursday, June 30th 1955

 

Otranto, Bay of Biscay

 

We were all expecting that when we really got into the Bay of Biscay we would all be seasick, but strangely enough the sea calmed down.  After breakfast we had school on E Deck.  Mr. Miller had found that it was Mrs. Johnstone's birthday so we all put in and the group prefects went and bought her a present.

 

I went on with my developing in my spare time and received 4/- in payment.  Pip Burfield kept telling me that I couldn't possibly make a success of my work if I didn't have a thermometer.  But I haven't ruined any films yet.

 

There was a slight mess-up about our positions at the dinner table, because twice as many cards as there were seats had been issued for Table 5.  I found myself sitting about six tables away.

 

I went to bed early to try and study a bit but it was pretty hopeless.  After lights out there was quite a row from the cabin next door.  Mr. Miller was on the warpath, and issuing threats of not going ashore at Naples.

 

Friday, July 1st 1955

 

Otranto, Gibraltar

 

A rather normal day.

 

A threat had been issued about dirty clothing in cabins, so at breakfast time I went and did my washing. Between periods and at lunch time I kept up my film processing.  The seventh film with my developer was a bit blurred so I changed the developer and only charged Mostyn Rutter sixpence for it.

 

We had to fill in landing cards for Naples, and forms for going ashore in Australia, last thing in the afternoon.  Our periods were interrupted by a children's cinema show, but we did not mind.  The sea was calm and the sun hot.  Many people were going about with red legs and backs.

 

We were allowed to stay up until 11.00 p.m. as we were calling in at Gibraltar for an hour.  It was dusk as we glided into the harbour.  The lights on the rock were just pinpricking the darkness. Soon the bumboat men arrived, and pandemonium broke loose.  The rails were packed and it was impossible to make yourself heard above the noise. I was unsuccessful in my attempt to buy a fan, but Mr. Butler bought two scarves and I got one off him.

 

Saturday, July 2nd 1955

 

Otranto, Mediterranean Sea

 

I reported sick in the morning with my sore back.  Mrs. Johnstone fixed me up and told me I must go on a diet.

 

John's sore back was due to acne.  Mrs. Johnstone's directive to "go on a diet" was good advice then, and still today - but not of much use to John in the short term, given shipboard peer pressure and the three meals a day shipboard regime.  Today's expert medical advice for the condition - from Google no less - suggests a diet including turmeric, green tea, vitamins A, D and E, zinc, and Omega-3 fatty acids - with an overarching Mediterranean-style diet. What hope on the Otranto! 

 

In the morning periods I struggled with trigonometric identities and history.  It was very hard on me when I had to turn an ice-cream down.

 

After lunch we all sunbathed on the poop deck.  I did not go to afternoon tea.  Mr. Tregenza took us for a short interesting poetry session.

 

We were not allowed to go to the dance, but I wandered about until bed-time.

 

Sunday, July 3rd 1955

 

Otranto

 

Bob Martin, Bill Moore and myself were up early.  We went for a dip in the children's swimming pool and then for a run about A Deck. After breakfast I wrote my diary, and a letter home.

 

At 10.45 a.m. there was a ship's service in the lounge.  As I was one of the boys down in the back row I couldn't hear a word of what was going on.

We lazed about in the afternoon, and straight after dinner we went to watch the cinema show.  As it was an open-air showing we had to wait until 8.15 p.m. for the start.  But Seven Brides for Seven Brothers was worth waiting for.

 

Monday, July 4th 1955

 

Otranto, Naples

 

When I awoke I rushed up on deck and saw that we had almost reached our berth in Naples Harbour.  A large aircraft carrier was nearby, so I photographed it.

 

After breakfast we assembled and found that Mr. Hutchinson had arrived on board.  Later we went ashore, and after passing through the shipping house we boarded two buses.  I was in a single seat near the front of our bus.  The sun was very hot.  When our buses set off they got lost in the streets before setting out on the 22 kilometre trip to Pompeii.  We soon left the city behind by passing through a sort of tollgate.  Soon we were speeding along with citrus groves on either side of the road.

 

When we arrived at Pompeii there was considerable delay before we filed through an entrance.  Our guide said, in very good English, that he would try and show us all the best spots.

 

First we saw the Museum (or Antiquarium) which housed relics unearthed in excavation of the city in the last 200 years.  Nearby was the city gate, and then up the street we found shops - the wine shops being distinguished by enormous terra-cotta pots sunk into the counter.

 

Most of the construction was of limestone or brick which had been stuccoed over to represent marble, which was unobtainable in the vicinity.  Further up the street was the Temple of Apollo, with the statue removed. Opposite it was the Basilica or seat of government, while the Town Hall was just around the corner.

All the civic buildings were placed about the Square, which had the Temple of Jupiter at one end.  Down another street we saw how they had stepping stones for pedestrians to cross the cobbled street in rainy weather.  They must have had rather rough rides in their chariots.

 

We saw a large water trough with its ornamental drinking place worn away with use.  Next we went into a house where our guide pointed out the atrium, peristyle, vestibule, cubicles, dining hall, and the drawing room, explaining the derivation of some of them.

 

Past more shops and houses we went - we saw grinding mills, ovens, and quite a few bars.  In some houses were well-preserved frescoes.  One house had been partially restored and gave us a good idea of the typical Roman villa.  We saw original lead piping, a tap, and many beautiful frescoes - as well as cooking utensils.

 

On our way out we saw the public baths, with their barrel vaults and pools for hot and cold bathing.  Some very beautiful stucco work remained.

 

We all bought a Coke for 1/- and then caught our buses back to the ship.  We were late for the only sitting of lunch and had to wait a bit.  About 3.20 p.m., after being paid in lira, we went off to the city to do our shopping.  I also walked through the Customs with 150 cigarettes for trading. They fetched 200 lira for a packet of 25.  I bought a small music box for 1,000 lira, and two cameo brooches for 75 cigarettes and 250 lira plus 2/-.

 

Otranto sailed about 6.00 p.m.. On the way out I saw that the aircraft carrier was USS Interpid - with Sabres, Shooting Stars, and unidentified long-distance bombers.

 

 

Tuesday, July 5th 1955

 

Otranto

 

I was up about 2.00 a.m. as we passed Stromboli.  I saw it erupt twice, and after waiting a while more I tumbled back into bed.  I was too tired to go to breakfast.  When I reported to Mrs. Hutchinson about my back she told me to have hot salt baths and to take salts.

 

We spent the morning doing our essay on the trip.  After lunch I had a bath and then went up to the pool deck to sun-bake.

 

In the afternoon I started a new notebook and put more into my work than I had done for a long time.

It was very hot when we went to bed and the cabin next door was very rowdy.

 

Wednesday, July 6th 1955

 

Otranto

 

In the morning I was up very early for a swim, and then with some other boys I went along to a 7.00 a.m. P.T. class on A Deck.  I thought it would do me good and I suppose it did, although some of the exercises I couldn't do.

 

Lessons were normal in the morning. In the afternoon we watched games of ship-cricket before going to collect our stickers for sleeping out. There were no lessons after that because the Captain was holding a cocktail party.

 

In the evening Bob, Bill and myself got together to write a report on Pompeii for the Young Sun.  We slept on D Deck.

 

Thursday, July 7th 1955

 

Otranto, Port Said

 

I woke feeling tired, about 5.40 a.m., but I forced myself to go for a swim.  I didn't feel any better - in fact I had a slight head and tummy ache. I trotted along to the P.T. class but that did not improve me.  I didn't have much breakfast.

 

After our lesson we finished our report and handed it to Mr. Hutchinson.  After dinner I slept for a while, but I got up to get my trust pay. We were almost in Port Said.  By the time I had dressed we had already stopped. The bumboat men were about, as usual.

Before we went ashore we had to wait for a while.  When we passed the police I was given my passport for the first time.

Once ashore we were pestered by people trying to sell us things from half-crown watches to spring-knives. We walked about the block and I got the impression that if there wasn't any Suez Canal there wouldn't be any Port Said. The buildings seemed all right, but most of the people and the streets stank.

 

We came back on board for dinner, and afterwards I walked along the pontoon and bought things from the boatmen. 

 

While I was up on B Deck waiting for the famous gilly-gilly man to start his performance they announced that the ship would not be sailing until 10.30 a.m. the following morning.  The gilly-gilly men were the same ones as on the outward trip and they used exactly the same tricks.

 

The night was stinking hot, but we couldn't sleep up on deck.

 

Friday, July 8th 1955

 

Otranto, Suez Canal

 

It was hot, and I spent most of the morning sun-bathing or reading.  We did not enter the Canal until well after 1.00 p.m.  A rumour had passed around that the delay was caused by a broken pump in the engine room.

 

The journey was slow and monotonous.  After we left Port Said there were stunted trees, or perhaps only bushes, in the awful sand.  There was occasional traffic on the road and a few trains passed us.  Started White Coolies.

 

Just before dinner we came to the Farouk By-pass, and our convoy of nine ships tied up to let the other convoy through.  Our mooring ropes were carried ashore by Egyptians in rowing boats, and they made heavy weather of it.

 

I did not bother going to sleep on deck.

 

Saturday, July 9th 1955

 

Otranto, Gulf of Suez, Red Sea

 

In the morning, passing down the Gulf of Suez, we saw oil derricks and installations on the Egyptian coast. I did French most of the morning.  Mr. Butler corrected it.  In the afternoon I wrote a 900-word report of my impressions of the trip and gave it to Mrs. Hutchinson for her husband.

 

It was dreadfully hot.

 

The red Sea Race Meeting was held, but I did not go.

 

Sunday, July 10th 1955

 

Red Sea

 

I was only just up in time for breakfast, and then I lounged around until our assembly.  Contingent photographs were distributed to those who had ordered them.

 

The church service was at 10.45 a.m. in the dance square on B Deck.  I went.  Most of the day I spent playing table tennis and reading Hornblower and the Atropos.  I beat Bill Moore, 16-21, 21-16, 25-23 in the first round of our championships.

 

In the evening I wrote two letters - one to Mrs. Harvey and one to Auntie Edna.  After dinner we went to seeThe Dam Busters.

 

Monday, July 11th 1955

 

Otranto, Red Sea

 

The day was very hot and humid, with just enough sea to stop the water evaporating.  I enjoyed myself with the history of Japan and a bit of French. Singing in the afternoon.

 

Mr. Hutchinson stood us drinks but our group had a bit of trouble getting served because the waiters did not like getting "threepenny 'orribles".

 

There was a trust pay for Aden in the afternoon.  

 

Before bed I played cards in the forward lounge on B Deck.

 

Tuesday, July 12th 1955

 

Otranto, Aden

 

We tucked in well at breakfast because we were not to get any lunch.  We saw an oilfield on a barren shore before we reached Aden about 10.00 a.m. Mail was distributed, and then after a fair wait we went ashore by launch.  It was very hot.

The Honorary Corresponding Secretary of the Overseas League in Aden, Miss Patel, met us and we boarded two buses.  The buses took us along through the tourist shopping centre, and following the sea we passed oil installations and surprisingly modern buildings.  Soon we were in another native section.  The filth and smell was appalling.

 

Then we revved up a long hill past two "bone gardens" with the craggy rocky cliffs to one side and the blue dhow-dotted sea on the other.  Surmounting the cliffs were a chain of forts linked by walls.  We turned a corner, and lo we were passing between great rock walls into what is known as the Crater area.

 

What a sight!  A town surrounded by grim grassless rocky slopes. There were some quite modern clean buildings but, of course, the natives' houses were small and dirty. The inevitable goats wandered everywhere.  We were surprised when a fair sized school was pointed put to us.

 

Suddenly we pulled up in front of the local gardens.  We walked through the only greenery I had seen since Port Said, and were shown a chain of water tanks which are said to have been built by the Queen of Sheba 3,000 years ago.  They hold 20,000,000 gallons of water.  One inch of rain will fill them up.  They were uncovered in 1854.  After a spin in a little museum we left the Crater area.

When we were on our way back we were shown a beautiful beach and swimming pool.  At the local fruit market Mr. Hutchinson bought fruit for us all. Drinks arrived, but there was a bit of hesitation before we drank them.  There was quite a voluble discussion in Arabic before we settled our bill and moved on.

 

We alighted from the bus at Miss Patel's shop and went off to do our shopping.  I went into all the shops but I could not buy a slide-rule.  We were hurried because time was short, and I ended up buying a gown, a stereoscope and three reels for it; and on the pontoon before going on board again I bought a gaudy shirt.

 

We were late leaving, and the night was not quite as hot as before.

 

Wednesday, July 13th 1955

 

Otranto, Arabian Sea

 

The sea decided to play tricks. One moment it would be swelling back and forth, and the next there would be quite respectable white caps.

 

I spent most of the morning doing history, and after lunch I almost washed my hands away.  Aden water is HARD.

 

A Teenagers' Afternoon was held, with novelty events, and by the time it was over the sea was getting up for good.  The south-west monsoon had hit us.

 

Many of the boys just gave up and lay in chairs waiting to be ill.  We measured a roll of 19 degrees.

 

Thursday, July 14th 1955

 

Otranto, Arabian Sea

 

Trevor and Grant and Bill had been ill and slept up on deck.  When we got up we found that part of F Deck had been roped off.  From down that low the sea looked mountainous.  We shipped a lot of water, and F Deck was entirely roped off.  Quite a few cabins on G Deck were flooded.

 

We had school on E Deck, and several times waves came over.  We slid over the deck in chairs at times.  In the afternoon I did a report on Aden for the Young Sun.

 

Many people were sea-sick, and lay on E Deck most of the day.  Roll from19 degrees to 28 degrees.

 

Friday, July 15th 1955

 

Otranto

 

Most of the boys had recovered from their bouts of sea-sickness and they turned up for school.

 

The sea seemed to be abating a trifle and we only shipped water on our deck once.  The ice-creams which were distributed during the course of the morning as usual were not very popular because some of us did not want to trust our stomachs.

 

Mr. Hutchinson instituted a fingernail inspection.  The ropes about F Deck were nearly all taken off.  

 

I had a great stack of ironing to do before going to bed.  Clocks were retarded 45 minutes.

 

Saturday, July 16th 1955

 

Otranto

 

I did not wake until 8.15 a.m. and therefore missed breakfast.  I tried to get on with my physics syllabus but it was rather hopeless.

 

We were told that we were not certain of going ashore at Colombo, because of the delay caused by the monsoon.

 

In the afternoon I played Kingsley Purdie in the ship's table tennis tournament.  He beat me 21-5 and 22-20.

 

There was a meeting to discuss a gift for Mr. Hutchinson, but as Val Noone was chairman not much headway was made.

 

Sunday, July 17th 1955

 

Otranto

 

Once again I slept right through and missed going to breakfast.  Bob Martin said only two boys were at our table for breakfast, so I wasn't the only one who couldn't wake up. The church service was at 10.45 a.m. as usual and we all attended.

 

I was glad to get On Our Selection, by Steele Rudd, out of the ship's library, and I spent quite a time reading.  

 

We started to think about having a midnight feast, so I walked away from the luncheon table with three buttered rolls and some cheese and biscuits to contribute my share.  At afternoon tea we all smuggled cakes out.  The cabin total was about 2 1/2 dozen.  We wound up our "swear box", and with the proceeds of 3/9 we bought a packet of biscuits and some marshmallows.

 

At about 10.30 p.m. we started. I hopped out of bed and took up my duties as drink-waiter.  I had managed to get some ice from the Pig & Whistle and so the drinks were a bit cool. We had quite a merry and gastronomic time.

 

When we finished and tried to get to sleep we were disturbed by other "bods" making a row.  I think we arrived in Colombo about midnight.

 

Illustrations:

#  Otranto postcard

#  "Orient Line to Australia, List of Passengers and General Information" booklet

#  Order of Morning Service, Otranto, 3 July 1955

#  Contingent members in Pompeii

#  The Basilica, Pompeii

#  Otranto dinner menu 5 July 1955

#  Port Said from Otranto

#  Otranto from Port Said

#  Traders at Otranto in Port Said

#  Otranto in Aden

#  Water tanks, Aden

#  Water tanks, Aden

To be continued..........

SCHOOLBOY ADVENTURE - 1955 - PART 8 of 10

Continuing John Mathews' travel diary...........

 

THE DIARY - Glasgow to London

 

Friday, June 10th 1955

 

Glasgow

 

Jimmy woke me up about 7.40 and by 8.00 we had finished breakfast and were off to school.  Andrew felt strange because we were early, so he did not catch the same bus as us but decided to wait for the next one.  Jim and I eventually arrived at his school and we talked to some of the boys until Andrew arrived.  Soon after that the bell rang.  Jim took me up to ask the headmaster if he could show me round the school.  The headmaster took us into his office and we had quite a chat.

 

When we left his office we were met by Mr. Blytheman, who took us into the canteen.  Here he asked us (with about eight other boys of the Contingent) to sing our Australian "folk" songs.  We obliged him, and then we had morning tea.  The headmaster was there, and he gave permission for our hosts to go down the river with us.

 

So when we left they all came with us.  Jim tried to find Andrew but was unable to do so, and we had to leave without him.  On the way to the wharf near King George V Bridge where we were to catch the steamer I rushed into the post office to buy an aerogram, and then into an optician's to buy a film.

 

We had a bit of a wait in the wharf building before any of the teachers arrived, but when they did we asked if the hosts could come with us.  Luckily, when we went on board the steamer, Queen Mary II, they all came with us. 

 

About 11.00 a.m. the steamer left, and with gathering speed we started on our trip down the famous River Clyde.  I was writing in my diary for quite a while, but I still tried to keep a weather eye on the passing scenes.

 

Soon after we left our berth we passed trading vessels from many parts of Europe and abroad.  Then we gradually came upon the shipyards - the wealth of Glasgow.  Among rearing masses of steel, ships were taking shape - ships which may go to Hong Kong or Antarctica, Coney Island or Venezuela - for Clyde-built ships are world famous.

 

We saw the gleaming white hull of the Empress of Britain and knew that very shortly the Queen was going to launch it.  Along a bit the keel of a fat ship was laid.  It may have been a ferry or a mother ship for whalers - we couldn't really tell.  John Brown's shipyard, with its new Ivernia and the almost completed Stanvac Australia faded astern, and we had left the yards behind.

 

Queen Mary II knifed her way along the gradually widening River Clyde, and so the land on our quarters took on a more rural atmosphere.  Soon the huge rock of Dumbarton appeared on our starboard bow.  Jim told me that the old fortress on the rock was almost impregnable.  He said that in the old days, as the capital of Strathclyde, Dumbarton was on the border where the English and Gaelic tongues met.

 

Port Glasgow went by, and then Greenock.  At Greenock we pulled in and passengers were put ashore.  Then across the river to Dunoon where we stopped once more.  When we left there and were steaming towards the Isle of Bute, with Rothesay ahead of us, we saw a naval mother ship decked out in flags with three submarines about her.

 

After disembarking at Rothesay we went into a waiting hall where Mr. Hutchinson went over the arrangements for our free period bit by bit.  Jimmy waited for me and he had a very long wait indeed.  When at last I had my money we only had about half-an-hour left before we were due to embark aboard the ship once more.  We went along the shops and I saw some cheap Scottish jewellery, and I went in and bought a brooch for Mrs, Hunter.

 

Rothesay was just the place for the tourist and holiday-maker.  Round the hillside were dozens of hotels, while the shops were full of things to catch the eye.  But the commercial prospects of the place were only a bad second to its scenery.  A picturesque harbour of sparkling blue water, with the rolling Argyll Hills - oh for a camera which could do justice to that!

 

Jim and I wandered back to the wharf, and when the ship arrived we embarked once more.  On the journey back I wrote my second letter, and we spent the rest of the time wandering about, watching the land on either side and the seagulls soaring effortlessly along behind.

 

We were late arriving back, and as the weather looked threatening Jim and I hurried home.  I did quite a lot of writing and one report for the Young Sun, and of course I had another very late night.

 

Saturday, June 11th 1955

 

Glasgow

 

After a very god night's sleep I awoke and found that the time was 11.00 a.m.  By the time I was up and ready for breakfast Jim and Andrew had arrived after doing a whole morning's work on a nearby market garden.  As it turned out I didn't have any breakfast, but had some brunch with the boys.  Then we all tidied ourselves up to go out.

 

A bus took us to Clydebank, but we had to wait for four buses to Balloch before we could get on one.  The fare was a penny ha'penny, but I was a fool because I had the chance of a half fare and didn't take it. The bus went through Old Kilpatrick and then through Dumbarton.  We passed the large red brick building where Mr. Hunter works.

 

At last we arrived at Balloch, and after crossing a road we went into Loch Lomond Park.  Along a tree-shaded path we walked, and just before we reached the water we turned off the path.  In a small arm of the loch were dozens of small motor boats and a few house boats.  Most of them were in several stages of disrepair.  They all looked rather neglected.

 

We walked around the shore and I looked out upon what is the most famous loch in the world.  Across an expanse of silver water were lovely hills surrounded by a halo of mist.  A boat drifted quietly, its occupants intent on their fishing; and the lapping of the water on the shingles formed the background for the few incidental noises. Here and there we passed picnickers and people like us, just out for a stroll.

 

We all had a good old laugh at one seagull.  It had caught a small eel in shallow water and was trying to eat it.  Every time the bird threw back its head to swallow the eel wriggled out and the gull had to chase it again.  Several times the eel was halfway down the bird's gullet and it would wriggle out once more.  But at last the eel was caught for the last time and disappeared down the red lane. The bird took a couple of sips of water and then waded off.

 

After walking about the gardens we walked back along the shore past the wrecks of the boats, and by way of a wall with a hole in it we came to the road.  We bought ourselves a drink at a stall, and then walked up the street to the bus park.  Soon after hopping on to a Luss bus we were on our way to Arden round Loch Lomond's side.

 

It was delightful looking out of the bus to the loch far below, and when we saw four rowing crews they seemed to skim over the water like jet-propelled pencils.  At one of the bus stops quite a few young people alighted for the Youth Hostel, which was hidden back among the trees.

 

When we got off the bus at Arden P.O. I left a sixpenny stick of rock in the bus.  What a blunder!

 

The Glen Fruin road was for us, so we set out along it - at a pace which soon began to slacken.  Jim tried to sing The T Model Ford, and after about twenty minutes of that Andrew and myself told him to keep quiet.  The road was quite good for a back country one, and it wound pleasantly along beside a little town.  When we came to a crossroads we took the road to Helensburgh.  Soon afterwards it began to sprinkle rain and we stopped under a leafy tree to shelter and have a bite to eat.

 

On the road once more and Andrew picked up a hammer lying there, and after a brief discussion we put it on the stone wall and left it there.

 

A peculiar bird flying overhead attracted our attention and we wondered what type it was.  I thought it was a stork.  Andrew heard a cuckoo and of course we all stopped and listened to it for a moment.

 

By now we had left the wee burn far behind and the country had become more open, with the inevitable stone walls criss-crossing the hillsides.  We had another discussion about how far we still had to go for Helensburgh, but we were interrupted by a man pulling up and giving us a lift.  He took us near the entrance to the caravan where the twins' aunt and uncle lived.  He was a County Commissioner and said he had been to Melbourne once.  We thanked him very much for the lift, and then after a short walk we came to the caravan cum shack where we were welcomed by Jim's aunt and uncle.

 

The boys' uncle left for a walk down into town, and his wife set about making us some tea.  While we were eating, quite a few Ayrshire cows blundered up near the caravan; but a dog scared them away.

 

While we were listening to Scottish dance music we looked out the open doorway towards the "Tail of the Bank", where all really large ships turn around and go back.

 

About 7.30 p.m. we said good-bye to the boys' Auntie Lizzie and walked down to the seafront.  Although it was rather late a putting green attracted me, and I decided to have a go.  After nine holes we had to leave, and on the way to the bus stop we passed a monument to Henry Bell who pioneered the steamboat.  Helensburgh also produced John Logie Baird, the inventor of T.V.

 

The bus journey was quite thrilling because we were in a new bus, and the driver seemed more suited for Le Mans than Glasgow.  We almost got our 1/6 worth.

 

When we arrived home we had a bit of supper, and just before I was going to bed the conversation turned to trout fishing.  It was midnight, and Mr. Hunter started to show me how to tie flies.  His fingers were surprisingly nimble for their size. I was very interested, but also glad to get to bed.

 

Sunday, June 12th 1955

 

Glasgow

 

When I was up and dressed Mrs. Hunter told me that I had beaten the boys to it.  The only time!  They were soon up, however, and about 11.00 a.m. we had a queer meal.  My stomach has not yet decided whether it was breakfast or dinner.

 

As we were off up the hills the boys and Mr. Hunter started to get ready.  Jimmy packed a large rucksack, and I put my diary into it with a faint hope of being able to write something while we were up in the hills.  Mrs. Hunter gave me an old pair of khaki trousers and a wind-proof jacket as she said I would need them to keep warm and dry. 

 

At last, with our various bundles and rods to carry, Jim, Andrew, and myself were on our way.  In the rather nippy air we tramped up Cochno Road. This was really enjoyable - being with such good companions, and having really no object but to spend a day having a good time.

 

We trudged through an estate which is used as a veterinary establishment by Glasgow University.  Mr. Hunter picked up a few lengths of rope, and after collecting a bundle of wood he slung it over his shoulder.  Jim said that there was no wood up there at all. Through several fields we went, climbing all the time.  Jim and Andrew made a few sarcastic comments about the farming of the University land.

 

Just before we came to the last fence Mr. Hunter gave me his bundle and sat down to wait for the approach of two men who had been following in our tracks.  He had no means of knowing whether they had permission to be there or not. At a tiny spring the three of us had a drink, and then we started to climb again.  With the last hill in front of us we saw a silvery waterfall, known as "The Grey Mare's Tail" come pluming down to the burn below.  At last, after climbing a steel fence by a style, we saw Loch Cochno right in front of us.  It was extensive but not enormous, and but for a man-made wall it would not be there.  We waited round a black hut until Mr. Hunter walked along with the two other men.

 

Mr. Hunter joined us and we started to walk around the loch.  The ground was tussocky and spongy in places, so we made a detour outside the fences. Across a few more hills and we at last stopped (cheers from Jimmy, who was carrying the rucksack).  Andrew and his father set up their rods, and I determined to watch them instead of going off hill climbing.  From the little I knew of trout fishing I thought it might have been a good day for fishing.  In the first few moments Mr. Hunter had a good rise but failed to sink his hook.

 

After that I had some time to look at my surroundings.  The loch was placid, a faint breeze set a shimmer of ripples across the water occasionally.  On an island, hundreds of gulls squawked raucously as they flew and fought.   I had a bit of a fish, and then after helping prepare a meal I went back with the two-handed rod.  Over the period of the whole day I managed to lose four flies.

 

Just before dinner a shout from Mr. Hunter had me flying along the shore of the loch, disregarding stones and bogs in my efforts to be there before the fish escaped, or something.  I arrived just as the fish - a brown trout almost a foot long - was dragged from the water.

 

We had a meal of soup, stew, and potatoes and tea - all warmed over our fire.  It was lovely to breathe a bit of fresh air and to see peaceful hills instead of rearing cranes and factories.

 

After that I fished quite a bit and, in between times, we had a walk around looking at the rocks and things. Andrew told me that all the ground was actually peat or petrified remains and roots of bygone grasses and plants, and that it is therefore not much use for agriculture.  Only a few sheep are grazed.  The loch itself supplies water for houses.  

 

During the War the country was wired up, so that in the event of a raid the lights could be turned on to make the Germans think it was Glasgow.  Even the surface of the water was wired to prevent seaplanes from landing.

 

I fished most of the afternoon and was unsuccessful, even in trying to get a rise.  Towards evening the wind dropped and the sun peeped through.  Mr. Hunter said it was no good fishing under those conditions, so we had some tea and then, just for the fun of it, we began to fish our way back down the loch before finding our way home.  I improved my casting, but could find neither hide nor hair of a fish.

 

At the other end of the loch, just before we packed up, I took a photo of Mr. Hunter.  I only wished I had had an orange filter for my lens to take a photo of the setting sun and its perfect mirror image in the now motionless water.

 

On the way home we had quite an interesting talk, and compared Britain with Australia - their good and bad qualities.  The boys showed me the market garden where they work on Saturday mornings.  They said that it once won a competition for the best market garden in Scotland.  

 

Back home we were very tired, but of course I was very glad to have had a satisfying day out in the open.  I said good-bye to Mr. Hunter before going to bed because he said he would be gone when I got up in the morning.

 

Monday, June 13th 1955

 

Glasgow 

 

After a leisurely breakfast Mrs. Hunter and myself went into Clydebank.  While she did a bit of shopping I went to a barber and had my hair cut, for only 1/3.  When we met afterwards we bought some postcards and a book of Scottish music.

 

After inquiring at her sister-in-law's shop, Mrs. Hunter took me around to the flat to meet Mrs. Pitbladder, the mother of Chris who works in Dad's office.  She left me there and went off.  I had a very nice talk with Mrs. Pitbladder and she showed me some photos. While she went out making a cup of coffee Mr. Pitbladder came in.  When I left to go home for lunch I was forced to accept a gift of 5/-.

 

Back home I had a trout salad lunch, and then did my packing.  By about 3.00 p.m. we were ready and left.  When we met the boys at Charing Cross I said good-bye to Mrs. Hunter.  At Overseas House I thanked the boys and they wished me good luck and left.

 

After a fine tea the coach for London left about 5.45 with 34 passengers and tons of luggage.  It was very crowded and I could not get much sleep. We stopped several times on the way.

 

Tuesday, June 14th 1955

 

Glasgow to London

 

At one roadhouse it cost us 1/5 for one sandwich.  Everybody was feeling pretty awful when we arrived at Victoria Coach Station about 7.30 a.m.  Bob Woodrow and myself did not wait after we had eaten a bite of breakfast, and left in a taxi for Churchill Gardens.  I arrived with Mrs. Harris just getting ready to leave for work.  She made me very welcome before going off.

 

When I had tidied up I went to Victoria by bus and walked along Victoria Street looking in all the bookshops. Then I had a turn about Westminster Abbey before going to Whitehall.

By way of Trafalgar Square I reached Overseas House to see if there was any mail.  As Mr. Hutchinson was said to still have it I set out with Dick Barton, Pip Burfield and Harvey Arnold to go to the Mount Royal Hotel in Marble Arch to find him.  We went along Piccadilly and Park Lane but could not find him at the hotel.  So I caught a train from Marble Arch to Victoria, and walked the half mile back to the flat.

 

After a bite to eat I wrote up my diary.  When Mrs. Harris came home she fed me again, and I was so tired that I went straight to bed.

 

Wednesday, June 15th 1955

 

24 Gilbert House, Churchill Gardens, Westminster SW1

 

Mrs. Harris woke me for breakfast just before she left, and I ate slowly; and after washing up I went out and caught a bus to Victoria.  

By Underground I went to Mansion House, and then I walked across the road to St. Paul's Cathedral for another look around.  What struck me, apart from the architecture of the building, was the number of statues and memorials.  Nineteenth century society seemed to have a mania for white marble statues.  I could not afford the galleries but I paid sixpence and went down into the crypt.

 

Among the hundreds of tombs and memorials were those of Beatty, Billy Hughes, and dozens of other statesmen and soldiers.  Those of Nelson and Wellington of course were the most imposing.

 

After that I was lost in the bombed out blocks near St. Paul's.  At last, by way of Smithfield meat market I reached the Old Bailey. Just for a lark I went into a courtroom and listened to a man being charged with eloping with 1,435 pounds.

 

Then I went down Fleet Street and The Strand, calling in at Australia House on the way to Trafalgar Square. Up Charing Cross Road I walked to Oxford Street and along to Bond Street.  Down Bond Street to Piccadilly and then into St. James's Street.  

When I arrived at Overseas House there were five letters for me.  Down to The Mall, and along to the Palace.  On my way to Victoria I called in at Overseas House (?) to thank Peter Cook for the tickets.

 

After tea I went to the Royal Tournament at Earl's Court.  It was very exciting and I went to the stables afterwards.

 

 

Thursday, June 16th 1955

 

London

 

After Mrs. Harris woke me she left for work, and I ate breakfast.  I tidied up and left by 10.00 a.m.

 

By a 24 bus I went to Oxford Street, and following Mr. Harris's advice I went to Selfridges.  I eventually reached the export department and, after a few inquiries, I went round the store.  When I went back to the export department I had a rough idea of what I wanted, so I obtained a card and went off to choose my things.  In the toy department I picked a guardsmen for Alan. I also got a Scottish doll for my sister.  At the jewellery department and the cosmetics I shopped for Mum, Nana, etc.  When I went back to the office I paid 5 pounds 18/6 for my goods, including 12/6 freight etc. down to the Otranto.

 

I had to get my passport, but when I went to the Mount Royal Hotel at Marble Arch Mr. Hutchinson could only give me the number.  I went back and gave the man the number to settle the business.  Down in the basement I bought a tea-set for Mr. and Mrs. Harris for 14/11.

 

I walked back to Charing Cross Road and caught a 24 bus home.  Then I walked down the street to telephone Mr. Thurman at Gilwell Park.

 

When I went home I decided to go to Battersea Park Athletic Ground; when I reached there I found that I was decidedly out of nick, and could only manage about 65 or 66 seconds for the 440.

 

Back home I had a leisurely time writing and reading.

 

Friday, June 17th 1955

 

London

 

I had intended to go to the Science Museum at South Kensington, but when I went to see Mr. Buchanan, the resident engineer of the Churchill Gardens housing estate, he asked me if I could come back about 2.00 p.m.   So after a trip to the P.O. to get aerogrammes I did all my washing and then wrote two letters home.  Then when I had done all the little jobs it was 2.00 p.m. so off I went once more.

 

Mr. Buchanan was quite courteous. He told me all I wanted to know about the estate and quite a lot more.  He suggested I should go to see Mr. Carter at the pump house.  When I arrived there Mr. Carter showed me all over the plant and the accumulator, and explained it all to me.  I could not understand some of it, but I nodded and said "yes" just the same.  Then he took me over to Dolphin Square where I saw their heating calorifiers and then the shopping centre.  By the swimming pool we stopped for a cup of coffee and had quite a chat.

 

I arrived home about 4.30, put on my scout uniform, and after a hurried visit to Overseas House I met Kerry Rogers and Bob Martin at Victoria Station.  We met Eric Spry and Harvey Arnold at the show Boy Scout.  It was very good, and warmed up as it went on, finishing up on a splendid note.

 

Saturday, June 18th 1955

 

London

 

After breakfast I sat down to wait for Harvey Arnold, who had said he would call for me at 10.30.  He never arrived, however.  I spent my time writing two reports for the Young Sun, and reading.  Mrs. Harris was home by about noon and she soon had a lovely dinner prepared.  I really enjoyed eating it.

 

I left by about 2.15 and caught a 24 bus to Trafalgar Square.  Then I walked along Pall Mall to St. James's Street, and then up to Overseas House. There was no mail for me but I left my reports for Mr. Hutchinson with the hall porter.

 

Back I went to Trafalgar Square.  Outside the National Gallery were several street artists.  One of them had chalked some scathing comments of the London businessman on the pavement.  In the art gallery I walked around for an hour or so.

 

When I left I walked about the cinemas, but those in Leicester Square were too expensive, so I ended up going to Victoria and seeing two really gangster films.  I was home soon after 9.00 p.m.

 

Sunday, June 19th 1955

 

London (Gilwell Park)

 

After breakfast I was into my scout uniform, and by 9.00 a.m. I had caught a bus at Victoria for Chingford. The journey was uneventful.  When I arrived at Chingford there was a one-and-a-half mile walk to Gilwell, but I had a lift part of the way.  The Scouts' Own was just finishing when I arrived.  I was nabbed by boys from an East Ham troop to swap badges, and they stripped me bare.

 

After a bit of walking about in the rain I found John Thurman and gave him the letter from my Uncle Will. We went into the providore and had a short conversation before I was turned over to Peter Groom.  He showed me round after it had stopped raining.  I was a bit disappointed with the size of the place.  It seemed very small.

 

I was very interested in "Eales", the caravan which was presented to B-P in 1929 with "Jam Roll" and a pair of braces.  We also saw the troop room and the training ground.

 

Over lunch in the refectory I met Michael Cooke and Mr. Clough, and after I had had my belt braided I went to the providore and talked to them for a while.  They suggested I go back to London with them, and we went up to Gilwellbury to collect their luggage.  The man there took us into Chingford Station and the train was already in.  

 

We put our luggage in the compartment and I left my camera on the seat.  While we were chatting on the station platform four "Teddy" boys came along, jumped into our carriage, and then went further up the train. After we got back into our carriage I found that my camera was missing.  Michael suspected the "Teddy" boys and we watched them at each station. At Clapton they alighted and started to run.  Michael caught two of them at the barrier and one eventually produced my camera from his pocket.

 

We called the police - two PCs arrived.  We all went off to Stoke-Newington Police Station.  Michael and I had our statements taken by two detectives of the C.I.B.  Everybody was very kind and courteous to us.

 

Then we caught a trolley bus to Liverpool Street Station where we met Mr. Clough.  In a cafe at Charing Cross we had a meal, and when I left for home I thanked Mr. Clough and said good-bye, because he was off to Yorkshire at 11.00 p.m.  Michael, who had contacted R.N. Barracks at Chatham, went to Rowland House for the night.

 

Monday, June 20th 1955

 

London

 

I was late for my rendezvous with Michael for 9.00 a.m. at Liverpool Street Station because my watch was slow.  After a dirty ride in a train I ran to Chingford Police Station to be there at 10.00 a.m.  Michael was there already.  At 10.15 a cheerful detective took us over to Waltham Abbey Juvenile Court.  Our two P.C. friends of the previous day were already there.

 

The trial was tame, really. I was called in - took the oath - and told my story over again.  The trial was adjourned until July 4th.  We were taken back to the police station and Michael was given a "doctored" chit by an obliging detective to say he had left at 12.30.  We were thus able to have a lunch when we arrived back in London. We went to Scout I.H.Q., and it cost me 3/-.  I said good-bye to Michael when he caught the 2.18 train for Chatham from Victoria.

 

I set off down Vauxhall Bridge Road, crossed the Thames, and after going along the Embankment I spent two hours in the Imperial War Museum, Lambeth Road.  A quick call at the Royal Festival Hall, up Southall and Southwark Streets to London Bridge, and then I crossed back.  Pausing to read an inscription on the Monument I found my way home again via the Embankment, Trafalgar Square and Victoria.

 

Tuesday, June 21st 1955

 

London

 

Soon after I had finished breakfast in walked Bill Moore, complete with cavalry sword by his side.  He was comparatively early - only 24 hours late.

 

I left about 10.30 and set off for the Science Museum at South Kensington.  On the way I passed Chelsea Barracks where a battalion of Coldstream Guards was stationed.  I came to the Museum by the subway from South Kensington Station.  

 

When I arrived I saw that a lecture on "heat" was advertised for 11.15.  I raced up to the gallery shown, and found that I was the only one who had turned up.  The lecturer took me about and told me a bit.  A lady arrived later.

 

The Museum was very interesting but so terribly vast one could not hope to see it all in detail.  There was a television display with the tennis at Wimbledon.  I particularly enjoyed all the working models, and the displays in their Children's Gallery were very good indeed.  I left about 6.00 p.m.

 

When I arrived home I found that Bill wanted to go to the pictures, so off we went to the Victoria Cinema.

 

Wednesday, June 22nd 1955

 

London

 

Bill stayed home and I left to go to Overseas House.  Here I picked up a parcel for Bill, and when I went to see Mr. Hutchinson about the four pounds trust money I had applied for I happened to mention my adventure with the Teddy Boys.  He said he thought it would make a good story, and took down the details of the incident.

 

When I arrived back at the flat no one was there.  Thinking Bill may have left the key with Mrs. Mackie I went to see, but he had not. Mrs. Mackie very kindly gave me a cup of coffee, and then I went off to do my shopping.

 

I went to Selfridges and bought a book on "Athletics", and then down to Bond Street where I bought a developing tank.   When I arrived home I had to sit on the doorstep until Mr. Harris arrived home.

 

After tea I developed three films. I was most surprised when the first one turned out.  Bill arrived home just as I was going to bed.  He had been to see his brother-in-law's brother.

 

Here is Tour Manager, Stan Hutchinson's, Sun report of John's encounter with the Teddy Boys.  Teddy Boys, incidentally, were the 1950s version of disaffected youth, distinguished - apart from their mildly delinquent behavior - by their black dress code, comprising long jackets, and stovepipe trousers usually short and exposing their socks.  They were spawned by the "rock and roll" music of the era. The name "Teddy" is a throwback to the similar angry youth of the Edwardian era. 

 

"Sun boy in brush with Teddy Boys

 

An Australian boy had a brush with a gang of Teddy Boys this week - and came out on top.

 

John Mathews of Heidelberg West, touring Britain with The Sun Youth Travel contingent, will return home with first-hand experience of one of Britain's current social problems.

 

Mathews was returning from Gilwell scout camp with an English friend, Michael Cooke, 19, a National Service naval trainee, whom he had met at Gilwell.

 

They left their baggage in the train to get a cup of tea.

 

On return, Mathews found his camera missing.

 

Mathews and Cooke suspected four Teddy Boys seen leaving the carriage.  All were 15 or 16.

 

Mathews and Cooke accosted the Teddies when they tried to leave Chingford station.

 

Two escaped, but Cooke slammed the station gate and held the two others.  Under his questioning one produced Mathews' camera.

 

Police arrested the Teddy Boys, and when Mathews gave evidence at Waltham Abbey Juvenile Court, the magistrate apologised for the incident having marred his stay in Britain.

 

The Teddy Boys were remanded until July 4.

 

The contingent has been dispersed while boys visit friends and relatives throughout Britain.

 

It reassembles at Kensington today for a final few days in London before sailing on the Otranto from Tilbury on June 28. 

 

Thursday, June 23rd 1955

 

London

 

I left about 9.15 a.m. with the object of getting a good spot for taking photographs of the Changing of the Guard at the Palace.  The Scots Guards were taking over from the Coldstreams.  Of course, most of the fellows who had movie cameras seemed to think that they had an indisputable right to shove their way to the front of the crowd and stay there. When we were able to move in to the railings I took quite a few nice shots of the Guards before it was all over. 

 

Then I went home.  Mrs. Harris had guests for dinner and I kept out of the way and did my packing.  Bill arrived home about 3.00 p.m. and I went off to get a taxi which would take us and all our junk to Kensington Town Hall.  We said a fond farewell to Mrs. Harris and waved as our taxi sped off.

 

After the usual speeches we were introduced to our hostesses.  I was with Bruce Dixon, and we went off with Mrs. Kitson to her lovely home in Redcliffe Road.  Later we met Mr. Kitson (Lt. Col.), and they told us that they had two children, George and Joanne, off at boarding school.

 

Friday, June 24th 1955

 

London - 33 Redcliffe Road, Chelsea SW10 

 

Bruce and myself went to Fulham Road after breakfast and caught a bus to South Kensington Station.  We were off on a photographing trip.

 

Our first stop was at the Monument. We climbed up the 300-odd steps to the top and had quite a view across London.  Then we walked down Cannon Street to St. Paul's Cathedral.  Once again I could not afford to climb up into the dome.

 

Up Cheapside we saw Bow Bells, then we went to Selfridges for Bruce to see what he was going to buy.  After a quick walk up to Marble Arch we went down Bond Street, Piccadilly to the Circus, then on to the National Gallery in Trafalgar Square.  Down Whitehall to Westminster Abbey we walked, and then on to Birdcage Walk to Buckingham Palace.

 

We were due at Overseas House at 3.45.  We all went to St. James's Palace and shook hands with the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester.

 

When we reached home I developed films and played table tennis, but I could not beat Mr. Kitson.

 

Saturday, June 25th 1955

 

London

 

Bruce went off in the morning to Selfridges while I stayed home and developed a film for him.  He arrived home soon after 10.00 a.m., and at 11.30 we left with Mr. and Mrs. Kitson to go to Haileybury College where their son George was boarding.  We ran into crowds going to the cricket at Lord's and we were late getting out of the London traffic.

 

George met us at the School and we went off to have a picnic together.  We had a very jolly time, although George and his father went and hid under a tree because they said the sun was too hot.  Bruce and myself really enjoyed our serves of strawberry mousse.

 

Back at the College George showed us round the school.  Then we watched a cricket match for a bit before having our tea.  After we had looked at some squash racquets with George we said farewell and were on our way home.

 

Although I tried very hard I still could not beat Mr. Kitson at table tennis.  I read The Big Fisherman in bed.

 

Sunday, June 26th 1955

 

London

 

We were very late rising and there was only an hour or two between our breakfast and an early lunch.  We left in the MG Magnette, and after a pleasant drive we came to the Runnymede Memorial for airmen with no known graves. It was very beautiful, overlooking the River Thames.  Windsor Castle could be seen on our left and London Airport on our right.

 

When we left there, a short run in the car brought us to Windsor.  After a great deal of trouble to park the car, we went up to the famous old castle.  The Grenadiers were doing guard duty.  Unfortunately we could not go into either St. George's Chapel or the State Apartments. St. George's Chapel was a very good example of Perpendicular Gothic architecture.  I got a glimpse in through an open door and marvelled at the flat vaulting of the roof.

 

On the way home we drove through the Royal Military College at Sandhurst.  A little while later we had tea at a tiny tea shop.

 

I didn't at all feel like the supper we had after we reached home.  I typed two reports for the Young Sun.  I read until very late.

 

Monday, June 27th 1955

 

London

 

Before the time we were due to be at Overseas House - 12.15 p.m. - Bruce and myself caught the Underground to Holborn and had a look at the British Museum.  Unluckily, they were displaying the same part as I had seen on my previous visit.  We left with Robin Storer, and at a camera shop I bought developer and films.

 

At Overseas House it was a great waste of time.  All we really did was pick up our food parcels after having our farewell dinner. I decided that Mr. Hutchinson's speeches were definitely improving.

 

Bruce and I decided that the weather was too bad to go to Wimbledon for the tennis, so we went to the Empire Theatre in Leicester Square to see The Dam Busters.  It was a very good film, and it portrayed the tension very well.

 

When we arrived home we found that a man Bruce knew had phoned for us to meet him at Wimbledon, but we had missed the message.  I spent most of the evening packing my cases.

Illustrations:

#  John Mathews' drawing "Bonnie Scotland"

#  "A Quick Look Round Westminster Abbey" booklet

#  London Transport Diagram of Lines, and Station Index

#  London Transport Central Buses Map, and List of Routes

#  St. Paul's Cathedral

#  Australia House, in The Strand

#  The Strand

#  Trafalgar Square

#  The National Gallery, at Trafalgar Square

To be continued..........