Wednesday, 13 October 2021

MAX OF MEX


The Marx brothers were five (not just the well-known three, but also Zeppo and Gummo). The Karamazov brothers were three (and maybe another from the other side of the blanket). The Warner brothers were four - Jack, Harry, Albert and Sam.  Jack was the leader of the pack, and a pack it was.  None of the founders of the great Hollywood studios had much formal education, but they all knew which side was up; and they created great businesses.  And the movies were massive earners of export income for the USA.  The reward for all this?  For example, for each of the nine years from 1937, Louis B. Meyer, studio head at MGM, was the highest paid salary-earner in the USA – a salary of $1.2 million in 1937.

 The Warner Bros studios in Burbank California produced some of the great films of the so-called “golden age” of Hollywood. Warner Bros weren’t much into musicals – although they had introduced sound to the movies with The Jazz Singer in 1927.  They weren’t much into domestic comedies  – although, having said that, numerous exceptions come to mind; after all, in the 20 years 1931 to 1950 Warner Bros released 2000 films - the voracious world-wide public had to be fed something.  They weren’t at all into westerns.  But they were into crime and melodrama and adventure.  Black and white seemed to be their natural milieu, and their “big” productions in black and white were just as credible as the equivalent technicolour ones emanating from MGM down the road at Culver City.  Still, generalising is a mug’s game!  

 I am quite certain, however, that the dozens of Warner Bros films of the ‘30s and ‘40s - films that I first saw when they appeared on the small screen after the 1956 advent of television in Australia - were invariably entertaining.   Not necessarily “good” films, but never “bad”; corny sometimes, but never crap. [It was no coincidence that television – the new opiate of the masses - began transmission in Australia just in time to broadcast the Melbourne Olympic Games, the greatest gladiatorial contest on Earth. But the baby was somewhat overdue, and for the living rooms of most of the populace the advent was too late.  Consequently, many early viewers got their fix standing in the street in front of some electrical goods retailer, peering into the window at a television set.  And a set with a screen not much bigger than today’s laptops.]

One niche that Warners occupied for a time was the biopic – never-entirely-factual biographies, always adding the entertainer’s touch of melo to the drama.  In 1934 Madame du Barry seduced us (or, at least, Louis XV); in 1936 The Story of Louis Pasteur was packaged for safe consumption; and The Life of Emile Zola flashed before us in 1937.  In 1940 Warners informed us with A Despatch from Reuter’s, telling the tale of Julius Reuter, the pioneer of news agency services; and treated us to Dr. Ehrlich’s Magic Bullet, about Paul Ehrlich whose research led to a cure for syphilis.  And somewhere between these opuses, in 1939, came Juarez, a story about Benito Juarez, the Mexican patriot, revolutionary, and politician.  Not a very marketable subject I should have thought, not at all in the mainstream of what (in Hollywood’s mind) would appeal to the audience for a Hollywood movie: backwater nation (albeit a neighbour), little known hero, and with unimpressive physique thus disqualifying the “love interest”.  But the Studio had to keep feeding the pigeons; and, more important I suspect, it had a continuing need to get value from its numerous contract players. Despite MGM’s motto ars gratia artis (art for art’s sake), that studio - indeed all the studios - were dedicated production machines.  Hollywood is often accorded the name “dream factory”, and it’s important to give each word equal weight.

It could be that Paul Muni suggested the subject of Juarez, for himself in the starring role.  Muni was an actor’s actor, was acknowledged as the most prestigious actor in the Warner Bros stable, and was said to be the only player under contract to Warners who was allowed to choose his parts.  Whether this actually meant to choose, or simply to reject, I don’t know.  Certainly the studios quickly categorised their players according to “type”, and rarely bothered to cast an established actor in a role for which that actor wasn’t already typecast.  So, unless they were wanting a break from their stereotype, if actors objected to roles it would most likely be because the roles weren’t big enough.  

Anyway, Muni was above all this.  He was a private person (married to the same and only wife for 45 years), made only a modest number of films (23 all up, in a 30-year Hollywood career); but won a best actor Oscar and was nominated four other times.  [Incidentally, at the time of filming, Muni’s contracted salary was $11500 per week, bettered at Warners only by James Cagney on $12500.  The then highest-paid female contracted to Warners was Bette Davis, on $4000 per week; while Ann Sheridan, for instance, was on $500 per week.]

But I always thought Muni was a ham, and a liability to the films he played in and the parts he played.  His voice was a monotone guttural, his body movements were graceless and unanimated; and, according to one commentator of similar sentiment: "his Juarez is wooden and stiff, less human being than stuffed owl" and his "performance is borderline robotic".  It is inconceivable that in real life Benito Juarez was the uncharismatic blob Muni portrayed. 


 Of peon origin for sure, ruthless indeed, unacquainted with Parisienne haute couture definitely (said to have modelled his sombre attire on that of Abraham Lincoln):  but the man formed and led a revolutionary army that defeated and expelled the French-imposed Mexican government.  And he then led his country until his death.  Clearly, he was a significant blip on the scope of history, and a central player in the French escapade in Mexico - the jaw-dropping improbability of which amazed me in 1962, and intrigues me still.  

A bit of pre-history.  The story of the peoples who came to occupy the area today known as Mexico is thought to have begun about 8000 BCE, but not until around 1500 BCE are the Olmecs identified as a "civilization".  Through a succession of dominant groups (the Mayas, and the Toltecs) the Aztecs were the dominant group at the time the Spanish arrived in 1517.  Within two years of 1517 the Cortez expedition (ex Cuba) of 11 ships and 450 soldiers had engaged, exploited, and conquered the Aztecs; and established Spanish control.  The Spanish rule of Mexico lasted for near 300 years......until Napoleon Bonaparte occupied Spain (in 1808), triggering in 1810, on the other side of the globe, the Mexican war for independence.  By 1821 the independence of Mexico from Spain was celebrated.  But then, in 1846, the United States annexed the Mexican territory of Texas; and in the consequent Mexican-American war Mexico lost the regions of New Mexico and California [for which Mexico received $15 million compensation], and was forced to recognise the Texas territory north of the Rio Grande as belonging to the United States. 

Less than a decade later, in 1857, a reformist government, in which Benito Juarez was a cabinet member, established a new constitution, a constitution which provided for universal male suffrage and for freedom of speech, and which curtailed the power of the Church.  However the bitter opposition of conservative groups led, in 1858, to the three-year-long War of Reform.  At war's end Juarez emerged as the Mexican leader.  But not all insurgency was quelled; and the French Emperor, Napoleon III - using Juarez's repudiation of foreign debts as a pretext - unbelievably recruited Archduke Maximilian of Austria to ascend the non-existent Mexican throne.  French troops occupied Mexico City, Juarez fled, and Maximilian arrived in 1863.  Four years later he was dead, and Benito Juarez had reclaimed the presidency.  He served thus until his death in 1872

Without detailing past events, the film picks up elements of the back-story, then impels them onwards:  the Mexican ambitions of Napoleon III, soon to collapse in ignominy, and withdrawal; Maximilian's naive belief that his presence in Mexico would be universally welcomed; the treachery of the French, inevitably leading to Maximilian's execution; and Benito Juarez saving his nation from the oppressors.

In the movie the part of Maximilian, Juarez's protagonist was played by Brian Aherne – an Englishman, one of the British “mafia” expatriated in Hollywood in the 1930s. Aherne had an Oxbridge accent, a beautifully modulated and mellifluous voice, and a tall and “commanding” persona.  He had a forty-year film career in London and Hollywood, and was on stage and in television. He was nominated for an Academy Award for his role as Maximilian.   Another film where Aherne exemplified nobility of character was the 1953 re-telling of the Titanic disaster, with Aherne in the role of Captain Smith.

Aherne played Maximilian as a man of principle, not convinced that the French cause in Mexico was correct or just, but certain that he must fulfil his duty with honour. 


 In Aherne’s portrayal Maximilian maintained his dignity to the moment of his death before the Juarez firing squad.  In life and in the film, Maximilian paid members of the firing squad to aim at his heart; but in life (not in the film) they shot away his face anyway.  His last words were “Viva Mexico!”.  In my view, despite the film being the Benito Juarez story, it is Maximilian who earns our sympathy, and who becomes in effect the leading character - Aherne's portrayal substantially assisted by Muni’s unsympathetic characterisation of Juarez.

Juarez was released in April 1939.  It would have arrived on Australian screens some months later (as was then the norm), and I saw it on television, early in 1962 I would guess.   I was so attracted by the story of Maximilian – the folly of the journey to Mexico, and the nobility of the protagonist – that I forthwith went to the Public Library to learn more.  It is an unsurprising fact that in Melbourne in the 1960s there was no mention of Mexico in the school history curricula (ditto today, I expect), so the Juarez and Maximilian story was previously unknown to me.  Perhaps this total ignorance was responsible for my overstretched response; but I had to know more.  I can’t now remember whether I called for a bunch of Mexican history books from the stacks, but I do know that I riffled through the index cards, and made a list of likely volumes - and then proceeded to buy them.

At the time, one of Melbourne’s more interesting second-hand bookshops was N.H.Seward & Co.  The Seward shop was on the south side of Bourke Street, near the Queen Street corner. The building was later demolished, and Dalgety House took its place.  [Dalgety House, coincidentally, was the location of my office from 1980 to 1990.]  Sewards was a most unusual firm in that it combined the second-hand bookselling business with the retailing of telescopes and other optical products.  The shop invariably seemed to be attended by elderly assistants (“elderly” as I understood it at the time, that is..........the word has gained significant elasticity for me as the years have passed), and I’m tempted to speculate that at some stage in the Seward family history the book business was added to the optical business to satisfy the leanings of a younger family member.  I’ll never know.  The Seward business and its name long ago slipped under the waves like Brian Aherne’s tragic steamship.  Anyway, the Sewards people did their search job and on my shelves are three volumes I acquired at the time.  They are listed at the end of this Piece.

As I reach the end of this little dip into Mexican history (and into my own past) I note with surprise that I have failed to pay due attention to Bette Davis, who played the part of Maximilian’s consort, Empress Carlota.  Davis was a woman of uncommon spirit (today we’d call her feisty, probably Feisty 101), and not only did she originate the name Oscar for the Academy Award statuette (after her husband at the time, Harmon Oscar Nelson), but she vigorously fought the studio contract system, even to the point of going on strike. Davis was Warners’ leading female star (and when she wasn’t overacting she could probably act), and a big money-earner for the Studio; but she was also the biggest thorn in their side. Her fights with Jack Warner were legendary.  

The Bette Davis role in Juarez was a plum one. 


 She played the glamorous Princess Charlotte of Belgium, who came to Mexico with Maximilian, married him in the cathedral in Mexico City to become Empress Carlota; and watched the Emperor’s power slip away. When Maximilian was arrested by Juarez’s troops Carlota was in Europe traipsing around the courts and governments (and the Vatican) seeking and begging for support for her husband and his Mexican undertaking.  She failed to secure such support, and never returned to Mexico.  Instead, Maximilian’s body was returned to Europe. Carlota became insane [and lived until 1927].  As I say, a plum role, and Davis repaid the Studio with equal lashings of ballroom glamour and frenzied insanity.  One commentator writes that the scene where she appeals for help from Napoleon lll "is a sensational exhibition of frenzy from the acting standpoint"; and another writes: "her final flitting away into the darkness of madness is the most unforgettable moment in the picture".

Notwithstanding the prominent place of Benito Juarez in the Mexican story I believe that Maximilian deserves an equal place on history’s page - even though he was a dupe. He was a man of inherent nobility, compassion, and goodness - characteristics not so often found within the one skin. I wonder whether such a brace of virtues is more likely to emerge in one who is born with the silver spoon of noblesse oblige in his mouth, or in one who rises above the privations of the gutter.  

One thing is for sure, however.  Anyone surfacing from the grease trap of poverty will surely have street smarts - something the barons of Hollywood all had, and something Juarez had; and, fatally, something Maximilian never had.

Let Benito Juarez have the final word:  "When a monarch misrules, he changes the people.  When a president misrules, the people change him."

 

Gary Andrews

Postscript: My impression of Paul Muni as an acting "blob" is challenged in the Jerome Lawrence biography, Actor: The Life and Times of Paul Muni (1974). The making of Juarez was a major Warner Bros project and, with a budget of $1,750,000, the studio's biggest to date. The working title, The Phantom Crown, was changed to Juarez in honour not of the Mexican patriot but to acknowledge Muni as the studio's greatest star. The studio had sourced over 300 books, documents, and photographs to authenticate the project.  "Muni seemed not merely to read the voluminous research, but to absorb it into his viscera."   The seven months lead-time gave Muni ample time to prepare, which preparation included a six weeks trip to Mexico  - in company with the film's scheduled director, William Dieterle and producer Hal Wallis - to meet the President. Muni also met survivors from the Juarez army of liberation.  "Muni quizzed them endlessly, not merely about the battles they remembered, but about the man Juarez, probing for the tiniest detail of habits and gestures. Did he ever smile?  How?  Did he ever laugh out loud?  Joyfully? Did he ever weep?  Describe his voice: soft? throaty? dynamic?  What did it feel like when Juarez walked into a room?

"Muni chose to underplay the role of Juarez totally.  He gives the impression of a giant, stolid and unmoving.....he cut away all extraneous gestures or the flamboyant use of props.  Later Muni felt he had been too faithful to the original, not allowing himself an artist's prerogative of adding coloration to the historical character.  He blamed himself for the fact that Juarez was far less popular then his previous biographical films."

And a titbit. Muni asked studio head, Jack Warner, to over-rule a clause in Muni's contract that guaranteed Muni, for each film, sole star billing above the film title.  He asked that Bette Davis be given equal billing.


Post-Postscript:  For a further morsel of insight into the movie-making business, and into the business of acting, here are some extracts from the Bette Davis autobiography, The Lonely Life (1962): 

 "Juarez was peculiarly constructed.  The part of the film in which Brian Aherne and I appeared as Maximilian and Carlota was shot and assembled before Mr. Muni as Juarez ever stepped before a camera. He saw our part of the picture in the projection room, and his wife, Bella, observed that it was a 'complete picture without ever seeing Juarez'.  It was true. Mr. Muni brought with him fifty additional pages of script that he wanted added to his part.  He was that powerful and the studio allowed it.  

"The length of any picture must be limited.  When the Juarez part of the film was finished, we were in trouble lengthwise.  Something had to go.  Brian's and my part of the film received the cuts.  Although it was a good motion picture, the film, before cutting destroyed it in the abattoir, was a great one.  Mr. Muni's seniority proved our downfall.  [Muni was still alive when Davis published this.] 

"Paul was a most attractive man, I thought.  Evidently he did not think so and usually retreated behind a beard. Transference is one thing, but I sincerely believe the audience wants to become familiar with certain physical attributes that are ever present in each performance.  Mr. Muni seemed intent on submerging himself so completely that he disappeared.  There is no question that his technique as an actor was superb.  But, for me, beneath the exquisite petit point of details, the loss of his own sovereignty worked conversely to rob some of his characterisations of blood.  It is a criticism that I aim at the naturalist actors."

And then, as if by way of apology, Davis adds: "Paul's intellect was always at work.  He fought the good fight in his own terms and added greatly to the dignity and respectability of Hollywood."

...............

The Quick-Step of an Emperor: Maximilian of Mexico by George P. Messervy (1921) 

The Mexican Adventure by Daniel Dawson (1935) 

A History of Mexico by Henry Bamford Parkes (1938, 1960 revision) [with N.H. Seward Pty Ltd invoice dated 8 October 1962, for 3 pounds 12 shillings ($7.20)]


 

Thursday, 30 September 2021

MORE KITCHEN SINK


 

I had the pleasure of being guest presenter on my son-in-law, Martin Myles's radio programme, The Kitchen Sink.  Guest presenter on episode168, to be pedantic (as each of us is).  My pleasant role was to select three tracks, and to introduce them to the listening audience (and to Martin).

 

Martin's programme, aired in the evening on community radio, presented music from Martin's personal collection accompanied by his expert commentary.  An indication of the flavour of The Kitchen Sink can be gotten from the names of the artists who performed the first few tracks that night - Big Dish, The Jesus and Mary Chain, Weather Report, World Party, Adrian Belew, Dream Academy.  Anything that a virgo septuagenarian (as I then was) might choose to play would inevitably be a cuckoo in that nest.  But we all survived; and so did the broadcast - Martin had installed a recording device...........

 

Thanks, Martin.  The first track is from Charles Trenet, French singer and songwriter.  I suppose he ought to be called Sharle Trenet.  Trenet lived from 1913 through into the 21st Century, into February 2001; so he died aged 88 - a long and successful career.  He was probably the most prominent of all the French popular singers.  He wrote his own songs and is said to have written close to a thousand.  His policy was to record only his own songs, so any Trenet recording you hear will be featuring a song that he composed.  

 



His most famous song, the one that we're going to hear tonight, is La Mer, The Sea.  He was said to have composed it while riding on a train in 1943 but put it in a bottom drawer because he thought it was not suitable to the sort of swing-type popular music of the time; but he did record it in 1946.  

 

There are more than 400 cover versions of La Mer, including a whole bunch of them based on a re-written version of the song, called Beyond the Sea, which was made famous by Bobby Darrin, I guess in the '60s or the '70s.  

 

The version we're going to hear is, I should have thought, the 1946 original version, that's the one that I grew up with and was played on the radio back in the '40s and '50s. But I've discovered another version, which seems to be much older than the one we're going to play; and it's a totally different song, in the sense that it's played at a sort of dance-band beat, dancing music.  At the time Trenet's voice was much lighter - totally different effect.  Anyway, we're playing the version that is famous and you'll hear that the voice is much deeper and more mature, and I should have expected a much older man than he apparently was when the recording was made.  So La Mer.........

 

La Mer - Charles Trenet

 


I think that that's a very sweet song, and it's surprising that he thought at the outset that it wouldn't be a seller or a goer.  And I think it was only when he slowed it down a little, and dropped his voice a little, and with  different orchestration, that it became a world hit, really a world hit. 


Now we're going to hear the song Joe Hill.  We're going to hear it twice, two different versions; and I wanted to do that by way of contrasting how a song has a traditional way of being presented, and how it's changed by subsequent generations and different interpreters.

 

Joe Hill, as a person, was an American labour activist early in the twentieth century, in the early 1900s, a hundred years ago.  In those days many trades unions were banned, or at least in many States trades unions were banned then.  They weren't as progressive as we - as we had become - in Australia, and Joe Hill was one of those people who was regarded as a sort of professional agitator, and who went from mine site to mine site "causing trouble".

 

The reason for the song is that in a small town there was a grocer and his son who were murdered by intruders, and Joe Hill on the very same day appeared in hospital with a gunshot wound; and he said it was through a lover's quarrel, and nobody believed him.  And he wouldn't reveal the name of the woman involved, and her other lover, and he was tried and executed by firing squad.  The story goes that at the end of the day Joe Hill didn't spill the beans because he thought he'd be more useful to the labour movement as a dead martyr than he would be as a live activist.

 

That's how it came about.  Some years later (he was executed in 1915)......it wasn't until 1936 that this song was written, and it took off as a song of protest, something that was subscribed to by members of the union movement and those who were happy to proclaim that Joe Hill was a martyr.

 

Now the principal exponent of the song was Paul Robeson.  Robeson was an Afro-American; and I'm happy to quote a line I read somewhere: "He was one of the most accomplished human beings in history."  This is a pretty bold statement.  He was the son of a clergyman.  He was born, fortunately for him, in one of the northern states of the United States, so he wasn't in the south.  He grew up in the north, not exactly rich, but certainly not suffering terrible hardship.  

 

He won a scholarship: his brains got him into Rutgers University, only the third ever black person to be admitted to that university, and the only one there at the time.   He was not only academically brilliant but he was a star of track and field, and basketball, and baseball, and he was in the football team - the American football team - as an all-American.  His sporting prowess was second to none.

 

He went on to Columbia law school, got a law degree; but it was the theatre that got him in.  He acted in plays.  It turned out he had a voice as well, and this voice is one of the most profoundly beautiful voices of the twentieth century.  He was on Broadway.  He acted in first performances of Eugene O'Neill plays.  He spent time in London.  He played Othello: he played Othello on Broadway for more than 200 performances, the longest ever season of a Shakespearian play.

 

 

So he was profoundly gifted.  Unfortunately for him he was also involved in the human rights movement, and he fell foul of the establishment and fell foul of important people; and he found that other countries did better things for their workers than did America at the time.  

 

He spent a lot of time in England, made ten movies there. Indeed he could speak twenty languages. He also spent a lot of time in Russia, and unfortunately he was a bit bewitched by Stalin and what the Communist system was doing at the time, and thought it was the way to freedom for the workers, and he didn't see that one man's freedom can be  another man's despotism. And that's what was going on in Russia - he didn't see that.

 

But he caused such a lot of trouble at home that he was in grave difficulty with the FBI and ultimately, in the 1940s, they took away his passport and he couldn't leave his own country for ten years. During that time his health declined. He died at the age of 77; with a bit of a comeback towards the end in his fortunes and reputation.

 

You can't take away the voice though, and that's what we're going to be hearing tonight.  A brilliant singer.

 

Now at one time, towards the end of his career, he came to Sydney, and he actually went to the Sydney Opera House while it was under construction, pulled up his car, and sang to the workers, and they all came down, sat on the scaffolding.  There's a film of that, you can see it on YouTube; and one of the songs he sang there was Joe Hill, the song we're going to hear tonight.

 

Now the second version of this is by John McCutcheon.  John McCutcheon is an American folk singer, currently aged 61.  He was born in 1952.  He also focusses on singing socially conscious songs, and this performance is recorded at a performing arts centre called Wolftrap, which is just out of Washington DC.  Wolftrap was bequeathed to the nation, a theatre was built into it, and it holds all sorts of functions - including John McCutcheon.

 



John McCutcheon sings Joe Hill with quite an extensive introduction as to how he came to be singing it.  A lot of it is boloney, actually.  For instance he tells us that Paul Robeson was an opera singer, which he never was. Nevertheless it's a very affectionate introduction to his revival if you like of the song and the revival of interest in Paul Robeson.  Here we go, Joe Hill.............

 

Joe Hill - John McCutcheon



Joe Hill - Paul Robeson



Martin: Pretty unmistakeable voice, there.

 

Gary: Yes it is.  I could listen to it forever.

 

Martin: I was just reflecting on your mini-bio of his, and how he seems like one of these gifted individuals who could have taken his life in all sorts of directions, but presumably chose his first love although he was no doubt capable of so many other things.

 

Gary: Well, I suppose it's because his life was framed in a situation of underprivileged black America.  There were occasions when he went to perform and couldn't get into the hotel in the town.  That sort of thing.  There was one hotel apparently on the west coast where it was the only hotel in town that would admit him, and so he sang in their foyer every day for two hours to pay them back for their - their farsightedness, I suppose.  All the time it was full on, all those years of his life he was fighting the good fight as he saw it.  In the end it brought him undone, he lost his mind, really; had lots of breakdowns; and in the last ten years of his life he was really housebound, and unable to do any of the things that he really loved to do.

 

Martin: And the John McCutcheon version.  As you said, a quite different version, much more in the folk tradition I suppose.  How did you come by John McCutcheon in general?

 

Gary: Actually I heard that track played on the radio, that was all.  I thought, that's so good I have to have that.

 

Martin: And it came complete with the introduction on the radio as well?

 

Gary: Yes.

 

Martin: I did like the story, although as you said it's a little flawed, not necessarily apocryphal, but loosely based on fact you might say.

 

Gary: Well, it was entertaining for the audience.

 

Martin: It was entertaining for the audience, exactly right.

 

 

********************

La Mer 

 

[English version]

 

We see dancing along the shores of clear bays,

Shimmers with silver

The sea

Changing shimmers

Under the rain

 

 

The sea

With the summer sky

Mix up her white horses

With the angels so pure

The infinite azure shepherdess

Sea

 

 

Sea

By the ponds

Those big wet reeds

See

Those white birds

And those rusty houses

 

 

The sea

Has cradled them

Along the shores of clear bays

And with a love song

The sea

Has rocked my heart for life

 

 

Joe Hill  


[per John McCutcheon] 

 

I dreamed I saw Joe Hill last night,
alive as you or me.
Says I, "But Joe, you're ten years dead",
"I never died", said he.
"I never died", said he.

 

The Copper Bosses killed you Joe,
they shot you Joe", says I.
"It takes more than guns to kill a man".
Says Joe, "I didn't die".
Says Joe, "I didn't die".

 

And standing there as big as life
and smiling with his eyes,
says Joe, "What they could never kill
went on to organize."
"Went on to organize."

 

From San Diego up to Maine,
in every mine and mill,
where workers fight to win their rights,
it's there you find Joe Hill.
It's there you find Joe Hill.

 

I dreamed I saw Joe Hill last night,
alive as you and me.
Says I, "But Joe, you're ten years dead".
"I never died", says he.
"I never died", says he.


[Additional verses]


"In Salt Lake, Joe," says I to him,
Him standing by my bed,
"They framed you on a murder charge,"
Says Joe, "But I ain't dead,"
Says Joe, "But I ain't dead."

"Joe Hill ain't dead," he says to me,
"Joe Hill ain't never died.
Where working men are out on strike
Joe Hill is at their side,
Joe Hill is at their side."




 

 

Wednesday, 22 September 2021

BRITAIN IN PICTURES - NUMBER 9


#121 English Fashion by Alison Settle

 

Alison Settle (1891 to 1980) was a fashion journalist for more than 50 years.  She was fashion editor of British Vogue for nine years from 1926, and held a similar post at The Observer from 1937 to 1960.  Somewhat overlapping, was her 27-years-long fashion column for The Lady.   The Lady, an independent fortnightly with "quirky, entertaining and informative features and quality writing", has been published since 1885: so, a magazine both established and influential.  Clearly, Alison Settle was likewise.  Settle provides us with some observations by way of backgrounding the scope of her survey of English fashion.

 


*  In no period down the centuries has there been any costuming that might be pointed to as English national dress.  "The lack of any peasant dress is an outstanding factor in the fashion history of the English people."

 

*  Moreover, "because there was no national peasant costume, dress in England has acted less as a barrier between one class and another than in any other country " [other country, that is, that does have a national dress].

 

*  The "essential Englishness" of fashion was underpinned by the great woollen trade.

 

*  While the Court in London was associated with stiff formality, elsewhere there developed dress of ease and comfortable elegance.  "Informal dress, like the informality of home life, was the contribution of the squire and his lady who proved so much more important in the shaping of English ways of thought than any fops and beauties of the Court." 

 

One of the inevitable shortcomings of the little volumes in the Britain in Pictures series is that there are no subject indexes: the “lack of space” excuse is both obvious and unnecessary.  But when the reader is confronted with a subject to which the reader has had little or no prior exposure that reader is obliged to tackle the subject-matter from start to finish, with no prospect that skimming will unearth aspects that may be of enlivening interest.  So it is with English Fashion (1948): no ability to search for hoop skirts, ruffles, breeches, pompadours, periwigs.  However, author, Alison Settle, eases the anxiety somewhat by adhering to a chronological presentation.  And so shall we.

 

Anglo-Saxon and Norman -

 

Taken together, the Anglo-Saxon and Norman rulers of England occupied the throne for about 750 years, from 400 A.D. to 1154 A.D. From the perspective of the present day, the story of the fashion of those times is mainly a blank page, with little written record, and even less pictorial.  Furthermore, the extant images are chiefly of religious or royal personages, and likely clothed in formulaic raiment anyway. 

 

From the Crusades to the Wars of the Roses -

 

The Crusades brought foreign fashions, fashions which were transformed and incorporated into the garb of the privileged. Settle ironically calls the Crusades "travel with a vengeance". A snippet from the times of the Crusades:  By the end of the twelfth century gloves had developed separated fingers, and the gloves of those of highest rank had become jewel encrusted - a fact which Richard the Lion-Hearted surely regretted.  He returned secretly from the Crusades, only to be imprisoned after his splendid gloves led to his recognition.

 

Women's hair, false and real, in the fourteenth century came to be coiled over the ears, and wooden pins became a necessary accoutrement; and so costly, in fact, that wives' and daughters' allowances became known as "pin money".

 

Settle notes, somewhat sadly, "the timeless determination of the elderly at any period in history to wear the clothes that suited them best in their youth or early middle age rather than to change with changing times".

 

The Tudors -

 

In the fifteenth century the trend was for thicker fabric and more of it.  "Men wore robes twelve yards in width round the hem, with sleeves so long and bulky that they trailed the filth of the streets, making the work of the street sweepers unnecessary."

 

And the fashion, by the reign of Edward IV (who reigned 1461 to 1483), was for the stuffing of clothes.......thus the age of bombast, the word bombast meaning to stuff with cotton.  Nor was cotton the only stuffing, so too was bran. "For men no fabric was too rich, no stuffing too wide......though all were prepared to laugh at such a mishap as the breeches being caught on a nail and the bran pouring out 'as from a mill that was grinding'."  But rebuke and ridicule were unable to quell such excessive fashions, and eventually laws were introduced to forbid, on pain of fine and forfeiture, any yeoman from stuffing his doublet.

 

"1561 was the year in which Mistress Montague, the Queen's silk-woman, gave the Queen a pair of stockings 'cunningly' knitted in black silk.  After that the Queen would never again wear cloth hose."

 

The Seventeenth Century -

 

With the restoration of Charles II (in 1660) Court fashions ceased to be English: the King brought with him the fashions of his years in exile, the fashions of the Court of Louis XIV.  He was, after all, restoring not only the Stuart dynasty but colour, fashion and gaiety to the Court scene.  But it took a mere six years for the King to eschew French fashions and to decree simpler garb - "the square-cut coat and the waistcoat which, in varying forms, have been worn by men until the present day".

 

The huge men's periwigs survived, however.  But over them hung the shadow of the Great Plague (1665 to 1666, with 75000 deaths).  From whose hair had the wig been made?  Samuel Pepys records that he durst not wear his new periwig "for fear of the infection - that it had been cut off the heads of people dead of the plague".

 

The Nineteenth Century -

 

At last there is documentation of fashion on an epic scale: the nineteenth century gave us the fashion magazine, and gave us the camera.  Women gained the chemise as an outer garment, and men's breeches and stockings came to be replaced by the trouser - at first close-fitting, later loose.  These fashions have endured; not so the contemporaneous colourful garb of the Prince Regent, Beau Brummel and the Dandies.  Some enduring legacies of Beau Brummel remained, however (apart from his custom of having his boots cleaned with champagne), including "good taste, perfection of cut, suitability of accessories, and - above all - scrupulous cleanliness".

 

Women's fashions, meanwhile, went through numerous changes during the nineteenth century, not least the emergence of clothing befitting sporting activity.  "England was the first country to design sports clothes for women (as distinct from hunting, riding or shooting kit)."  "Games and sports, whether croquet, archery, tennis, golf, bicycling or skating, demanded the English quality of ease and informality."

 

Nota bene the invention of the sewing machine. While not the first developer of the domestic sewing machine, Isaac Singer was clearly the most entrepreneurial and successful.  He made his first machine in Boston in 1850, and by 1863 Singer was producing 20,000 machines per annum - by which time the Singer company was manufacturing in Europe and was in effect the world's first multi-national company.  A little over thirty years on, in the year 1895, 14 million Singer sewing machines were manufactured and sold worldwide.  English fashion in the upcoming century could not but be affected by this revolution.

 

The Twentieth Century -

 

Settle's story concludes in 1948 with less than half the century having elapsed.  There is little point in me attempting to outline the fashion of that first half or, indeed, outlining what has transpired since.  There is no doubt that fashion has been an ever-changing feature of the human experience; and the twentieth century (and the years since) has seen change at an increasing rate.  That degree of change (whether or not English) has probably rendered the word "fashion" meaningless.  Sure, it's still possible in the eyes of the world to be "fashionable", but a "fashion" these days is little more than a fad, or a blip between advertising campaigns. 

 

#72  British Postage Stamps by S.C. Johnson

 

Let there be no doubt.  In the minds of the publishers and of our author, S.C. Johnson, and apparently in the minds of the buying public of 1944, the word "Britain" meant the entire British Empire.  Accordingly, more than half of Johnson's British Postage Stamps is devoted to sections styled Stamps of British North AmericaWest Indian IslandsSouth AfricaNigeria to SomalilandAden to Burma via the Persian GulfThe Far East, Australia and New Zealand, and The Scattered Islands of the Empire - clearly worlds apart from Great Britain itself.  Regardless of the world of postage stamps, these names - as with the places coloured red on world maps of those times - give a salutary snapshot of the world as it was.  If written today the volume would be said to encompass the whole British Commonwealth, although through the changes of the intervening 77 years that Commonwealth is somewhat smaller in geographic scope than the Empire of Johnson's day.  

 


How dated are these promotional comments from the dust wrapper?:  "The range and diversity of the British Empire is reflected in her postage stamps which come from every quarter of the globe and are used by peoples of many different races........These Empire stamps help to tell the tale of British Colonisation [note capital C] and settlement overseas."

 

I had intended first to deal briefly, in a number of dot points, with Johnson's overview of Empire and then to focus on the more weighty story of the postage stamp in Britain.  But I changed my mind, because Johnson's Empire story, while interesting, is too anecdotal and, frankly, irrelevant.  For instance, the mention of some Empire stamps being of eye-watering value in 1944 is of little moment in 2021........I am not about to ascertain present-day comparisons, and to see whether such collectables have kept pace with the 77-year inflation rate.  I'll repeat just one morsel of Johnson trivia:  In 1897 a set of Canadian stamps was issued showing the monetary value in words only.  But Universal Postal Union rules required all stamps to show their denomination in figures, and the stamps had to be withdrawn.  Which leads to a piece of Andrews trivia:  the word "trivia" is from the Latin trivium or trivialis meaning commonplace or found everywhere, derived from the junction of three roads, where commonplace or vulgar people were likely to meet. The word evolved over the centuries to mean something barely worth mentioning.

 

So, from the classroom back to the Sceptred Isle. 

 

While it's a truism that there can be no postage stamps without there being a postal service, it may surprise to know that there was a British postal service centuries before there were postage stamps. Sir Brain Tuke was a long-standing and high-ranking official in the Court of Henry VIII, and from 1517 (or perhaps some years earlier) he served as Governor of the King's Posts.  Governor Tuke's role concerned official mail only - this situation being somewhat belatedly confirmed by a 1609 Act of Parliament which made letter-carrying a Crown monopoly.  In 1635 Charles I made the mail service available to the public, with postage to be paid by the recipient; and for some years the Crown monopoly was farmed out to favoured individuals.  This "privatisation" ended in 1657 when Oliver Cromwell re-established the Post Office for the whole country, and appointed the first Postmaster-General.  Fixed delivery charges were introduced by Parliament, although there was something of a flaw in the system which, in addition to payment on delivery, imposed a delivery fee based on distance travelled by the letter.  Recipients were free to refuse delivery, and thus avoid payment, and they did!

 

In 1660, under the restored monarchy, Charles ll officially established the General Post Office; but even then, for some years, this function was auctioned off: most notably when one Henry Bishop - for the incredible sum of 21500 pounds - acquired the right to be Postmaster-General for the ensuing seven years.   Bishop was the first to frank a postmark on envelopes that passed through the system. That system, in those days, involved Government "letter offices" in major centres, with "post boys" who rode between them carrying the mail.  Letters had to be taken to the letter offices for "posting"; and since there weren't offices in all centres there arose, additionally, the system of carriers, who collected mail from their local neighbourhoods and took them to the nearest letter office.  There were hundreds of such carriers.

 

By 1680 one such carrier, William Dockwra, operated over four hundred local offices in London within a ten mile radius, had upwards of ten collections a day, and charged a penny per letter for his service. Dockwra also invented the postmark on the envelope, effectively a receipt for the penny charged.  The Dockwra innovation was short-lived, and over the next 150 years or so the postal system muddled along.  Post boys were so badly paid that robbing their own mail was a constant temptation; and there was ever-present danger from highwaymen; and, overall, the system was not efficient.  Notwithstanding, the cost of posting a letter kept rising.

 

The situation was salvaged by the introduction of pre-paid postage and the postage stamp.  The 1837 recommendations on postal reform, by Rowland Hill (later Sir Rowland), were blindingly obvious: charge the fee before dispatch, charge a standard fee no matter the length of the journey, and attach a sticker to the envelope as proof of payment. Hill argued that postmen would no longer have to spend time waiting to collect the fee, and claimed that the simplified system would result in increased postal business.  Hill further suggested that the standard fee should be one penny.  Hill was ridiculed, but prevailed.  His plan was adopted.  Hill's plan was consummated with the introduction in 1840 of the "Penny Black", the first adhesive postage stamp.  From that time (but, alas, not for all time!) the letter postal rate was reduced to one penny.  By 1860 some 90 countries were issuing postal stamps.

 

As flagships of the new order, the Penny Black, and its companion the Twopenny Blue, were short lived.  Released in May 1840 they were withdrawn in February 1841....because it was found that the inks were permanent, and that this enabled the postmarks to be washed off and the stamps used again!.  However, the ink of the stamps from 1841 was designed to wash away.

 

From 1840 to 1847 there were stamps of the two denominations only, meaning that a letter to the United States or to the Australian colonies - priced at one shilling - required a minimum of six, up to twelve stamps. This absurdity led to the issuing of the shilling stamp.  There was great official concern about forgery, doubtless fed by residual embarrassment from the Penny Black debacle, and the shilling stamps were produced with embossing, and with embedded silk thread - serious over-reaction to the perceived threat. Then, triggered by the fiscal constraints of the Crimean War (from 1854) cheaper methods of production were considered, leading to a type of paper that "broke up when wetted".  Somewhat improved over time, this non-reusable paper remained the standard until 1935, when the Photogravure process was introduced.

 

Johnson provides us with an unenthusiastic description of the prosaic British stamps issued during the near hundred years that followed. The story of Rowland Hill and the Penny Black would be difficult to beat, he says, but that stamp has been "followed by too many nondescript designs".  "Our stamps travel the world over and can stimulate interest in us.  On that score alone, we should be content with nothing less than the very best."

 

Johnson then appears to assuage his disappointment at the native product - by unleashing the following bit of condescension:

 

"Another series of classic stamps are the Sydney Views, which were issued in 1850-1 for use in the Australian province (?) of New South Wales.  The Sydney Views were produced in the colony and they show clearly that the art of engraving and printing was then in a backward condition.  Though the design was intended to imitate the Penny Black, with a view replacing the Queen's profile, they were very different in conception and are in fact the work of amateurs."  They were probably former convicts, too.

 

Gary Andrews