Continuing John Mathews' travel diary.........
THE DIARY - Edinburgh to Glasgow
Friday, June 3rd 1955
Edinburgh - 153 Dalkeith Road
Mr. Ker didn't wake us until just on 9.00 a.m., and after a leisurely breakfast I packed up my laundry to take with me. About 10.20 we left with Mr. Ker for Overseas House. We walked down East Mayfield into Minto Street where we caught a bus.
We alighted at Princes Street and walked down it for a little way, and after we had passed the Scottish Royal Academy we went down into Princes Park. The magnificent Scott Monument towered above us, and Trevor and myself decided we must climb it.
Soon afterwards we came to the beautiful floral clock, which is made up of about 20,000 tiny plants. It has moving hands and every quarter hour a cuckoo jumps out of a box and does his stuff. To our left was a simple war memorial, which reminded me of Stonehenge. We saw the open-air concert place, and workmen were busy putting in a new floor for the coming season of dancing.
Mr. Ker then showed us across the road and then left us. We met the boys, and I took my laundry upstairs. Then I wandered down the street and had a look at the shops. A girl beckoned me in and said she was from Melbourne and asked me about the hometown.
Back at the Overseas House we all piled into three Corporation buses. Kerry Rogers sorted the mail. I received a letter from Nana and one from Mr. Nixon. The buses took us first to Edinburgh Castle. They parked, and then we went up into the castle itself through a gateway.
Our first port of call was the Argyll Tower and the dungeon from whence the portcullis used to be lowered. Then up the top, where all the boys were soon scrambling upon the cannon, and bombarding Edinburgh with imaginary shots.
In one room there were some interesting paintings, one of which was attributed to van Dyck. In a small room adjoining it Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to the future King James VI of Scotland and I of England.
Then we went in to see the Scottish Crown Jewels, which are the oldest complete surviving set in Europe. They were saved from the Cromwellian armies and lost in a chest during the period of the Jacobite rebellions. Now they are protected by a steel cage, and the room they are in is sealed up by two enormous Chubb doors with about three combination locks on them.
Now we saw a room full of souvenirs and medals. There was one huge case full of awards won by one man in a lifetime of competition shooting. Over the courtyard we went to a museum full of uniforms and weapons of all the Scots regiments. There was so much to see that we really didn't know where to start.
Then we went into the National War Memorial, which was opened in 1927. It was designed by Sir Robert Lorimer. Inside we saw the colours of all the regiments in their sanctuaries. Each regiment had a book for both wars, and its fields of battle were lettered in gold around the walls. It was all very fitting and solemn. In one part the original rock upon which the castle was built sticks up above the floor level. Outside once more, and we were on our way from the castle.
The buses took us down the Royal Mile to St. Giles' Cathedral. This old church was originally built in 1120, but it was destroyed by English conquerors, and only the four main piers which support the steeple are original. It was rebuilt in the fifteenth century, and in the eighteenth century it was finished as it is now.
Inside we saw several beautiful chapels, and on a glass-covered board we saw portion of the original National Covenant. Many of the signatures were in blood. We saw the chapel of the Knights of the Thistle and admired the beautiful carved woodwork there. When we left there we ran around the back to see a plaque in the road which marks the grave of John Knox. A car was parked over the top of it.
Down the Royal Mile we stopped to look at the house where John Knox lived. This is said to be the oldest in Edinburgh. After passing over the brass marks in the road, which mark the old city gate's position, we saw the city museums.
Then we came to Holyrood Palace over the three S's in the roadway. The Palace was done up by James II to make it match. We were not allowed to go in because it was being prepared for a visit by the Queen.
Our buses then took us half way up Arthur's Seat, where we ate our picnic lunches on the grassy hillside. After our meal some of us climbed right up to the top, which was 822 feet 9 inches above sea level. When we left there we went down the other side of the hill in the buses, and we saw Duddingston Loch which is a bird sanctuary. Next to it was Prestonfield House which is surrounded by trees in the shape of the Ace of Clubs. Then we saw the Nelson mansion, with the cottage on top. In the distance we saw the dome of McEwan Hall.
About 3.45 we arrived at the City Chambers in the Royal Mile to have tea with the Lord Provost. The Provost was away, however, so we were the guests of the Bailie, Bruce Russell. Around the walls were paintings connected with the history of Edinburgh, done by William Hole.
After tea we all went back to Overseas House. Here there was a trust pay and a distribution of food parcels for our hostesses. Mr. Hutchinson told us that the free weekend would start from Glasgow and be a "free 10 days" instead. This presented me with a problem, and when I left with Trevor we went to find out about the buses to London.
On our way home at last we got on a bus which was not going as far as we wanted, but eventually we got one that was. The conductor only charged us half fare. When we reached home we started to write. Except for a break for supper I kept going until almost 11.00 p.m. We were glad to get to bed at last.
Saturday, June 4th 1955
Edinburgh
Trevor and I were up by about 8.30, and after breakfast we set out for the city to do a bit of shopping. We got off the bus at the top of Princes Street and after crossing over we began to look in the shop windows as we walked along. I went into the SMT bus company to see about my trip at the start of the free ten days, but it was crowded so I didn't wait.
As we walked along we saw some of the boys sporting glengarries. We looked at a few windows but did not buy anything at the time. The Tartan Gift Shop looked attractive, but we just had a walk around it and didn't buy. A bit further down we came to a bookstore, and after a preliminary ramble I bought a short guide book to Edinburgh.
When we went back to the Tartan Shop we found that many of the boys were buying scarves, glengarries, berets and ties. Of course I wanted to be in the fashion, but I decided not to stretch the purse too far. So I bought Mum a scarf of Erracht Cameron tartan for 7/11.
When we left there I went back to the bus company, and after a wait of over half-an-hour I found that there was not much chance of me going to anywhere except London very economically.
Then I walked across the road to the Scott Monument, and after paying my threepence I climbed the 287 steps to the very top gallery. The spiral stairway was very narrow and after the first part there was no hand-rail. Anyone with a few pounds surplus to carry about would have great difficulty moving along at all. At the top there was a fine view over most of Edinburgh. Far below the traffic crawled along, and tiny specks of people jostled about the pavement. Unfortunately it was very hazy and I could not see out over the Firth of Forth. When I descended I paid a further sixpence for a certificate to say I had climbed to the top.
Then I walked along and out the gate at the end of the park. In front of me was the Scottish Royal Academy, and to my left the National Gallery of Scotland. Both were built in the Greek styles, the Academy with Doric columns and the Gallery with Ionic columns.
I walked up and went into the National Gallery. I made for the French Impressionist School, and on the way I saw two of El Greco's works - The Saviour of the World and Saint Jerome. They kept me absorbed until it was time for me to go to Overseas House for my lunch. After lunch I went back for almost an hour and found some excellent works - Hals, Rubens, Tintoretto, Vermeer, van Dyck, van Gogh, Monet to mention just a few of the famous artists represented there. I took quite a few notes and, after having a quick glimpse at the Scottish section, I went back to Overseas House.
John Reid, Don Rice and Kingsley Purdie were waiting for their host to take them to his old school's athletic sports. They said I could go too.
I was introduced to their host and hostess, Mr. and Mrs. Kerr, and off we went to the ground. We picked up Trevor Shiell on the way. By way of a bumpy old double-decker tram we arrived at the new Goldenacre Sports Ground, and after buying a programme we were just in time to see the last one-and-a-half laps of the open mile.
The school, George Heriot's, has boys from the age of 5 right up until 18; there are 1600 of them. I was very intrigued by the tiny ones, who ran in all their races as if their lives depended on it. They had races of 80 and 150 yards, and it was very amusing to see a budding Bannister of about six puff through the tape. Quite a few of the races were handicapped events.
Other races for older boys were of odd distances too, for instance the 300 yards handicap. We had missed a few of the exciting events, but we had a very good time of it. I met Bill Moore and Bob Martin and we watched a cricket match which was going on nearby.
The 120 yards hurdles final was not bad, but the only boy who was hurdling correctly came third. The most amusing events were the obstacle races. Climbing over fences, diving under tarpaulins, over barriers, through barrels, and up ladders and down again. By the time the boys had finished their little jaunts they were very tired out. When it was all over we stayed for a little while to hear some of the prize-giving. All placegetters received something.
Then we all left with Mr. Kerr and caught a number 18 bus to his place for tea. I rang up Miss Ker and she said it would be all right to stop. We had a very happy time. The boys borrowed the Kerr kilts and we all had our photographs taken in them in turn.
At tea there were five boys, Mrs. Kerr, and her daughter Rosemary. After tea we went out into the back yard, and after spending ten minutes rigging up the contraption, we had an uproarious time with "a tennis practice set". The ball came back from all directions and several times disappeared over the fence.
We had a bit of supper, then Mrs. Kerr rang Miss Ker and told her about me staying on. By about 10.30 I left and caught a bus the short distance back home after one of the most enjoyable evenings I had spent for a long time.
Sunday, June 5th 1955
Edinburgh
Trevor and myself decided at breakfast that we would attend the church service at St. Giles' Cathedral before going to lunch. So at about five to ten we said adieu to our hosts and hurried off to catch our bus. We arrived at the rendezvous at the Overseas League just before the appointed time of 10.30. A lady came and took the ten of us who had shown up, to the church.
We were shown to our pews, which were very near the pulpit. Then at 10.46 the visitors who had been waiting moved forward to take up the empty pews. The service was quite good, although I thought the preacher could have done without reading the sermon. The collection was taken up in little bags by the elders who wore tails.
Soon after the striking of 12 noon above our heads the sermon was over, and a few moments later we were once more out in the sunshine.
Back to the Overseas League we went for lunch. Trevor and I were the first two in for lunch because I was in a bit of a hurry to be off. After our meal I told Trevor I would meet him and our hosts near the Forth Bridge about 4.30, and then I set off on my tramp about the city.
First I set off up Princes Street and, continuing on past Bridge into Waterloo Place, I climbed the rough steps up to Calton Hill. The first thing I saw was a circular monument bearing the name Dugald Stewart. Then there was the City Observatory, with its domes. Up a bit from that was a monument (tower) to Nelson built by the citizens of Edinburgh -
"Not to express their unavailing sorrow for his death
Nor yet to celebrate the matchless glories of his life,
But by his noble example to teach their sons
To emulate what they admire,
And like him, when duty requires it,
To die for their country."
Right on top of the hill was a structure marked on my map as a National Monument. It consisted of eight Doric columns with three going back from each end on a series of raised steps. It struck me as being very similar to a part of the Parthenon. It looked disused, and when I went round the back it looked uncompleted. Miss Ker told me later that it is known as Edinburgh's disgrace. It was originally meant to be a second Parthenon, but funds ran out before it was anything like finished.
I climbed down the side of the hill, ignoring the steps, and went across the road to St. Andrew's House, an imposing building with both vertical and horizontal lines - vertical predominating. Miss Ker told me that it is the Scottish equivalent of Whitehall.
Then I climbed down a long stairway to a lane which brought me out into Canongate. I walked down a little way, and just at the front of Holyrood House Palace I went into an Ancient Monuments Exhibition. There were displays to illustrate the position of all the famous old buildings and ruins in Scotland.
Leaving that, I went for a walk about Holyrood House again, and then out again into Canongate. Then I set out up the Royal Mile. Of course this historic old road has been exploited, and there are gift shops and antique shops in many places. I passed the City Museum. Huntly House, and it was shut. I had another glance at the place where John Knox used to live and then turned down North Bridge with its shops.
When I came to the University building I turned down beside it into Chambers Street. I went into the Royal Scottish Museum, but in the short time available I had no time to get anything more than a glimpse at anything. The building itself was old but the cases and the arrangement of the exhibits were very well done. Whole cases and rooms were devoted to really instructive subjects. Coal mining, metallurgy, engines. What knowledge you could get from a week's stay there would probably fill a stack of books two miles high!
When I left there I walked down the street and then past the statue of Greyfriars Bobby and into the Greyfriars Churchyard. It was here that the National Covenant was signed in 1638. After a walk around the church I left there and walked around another street. I passed the Scottish Scout shop and had a bit of a look in. I turned into Lauriston Place. On my left was the Royal Infirmary and on my right, set well back amidst lawns, was George Heriot's famous school.
Then, after going down a lane, I came into the Grassmarket, and then I eventually came out near St. Giles'. Then down the Mound. At the Forum were two gents spouting about something to a vaguely interested and unappreciative audience.
I paid 1/6 after much cogitation and went into the Royal Academy. Soon I wished I had saved my money. The paintings were all contemporary and well done, but not worth 1/6. One room was full of drawings and specifications for buildings which are going to be built. There were two models also.
The tendency in design seems to be upwards in most cases, but schools and hospitals stayed near the ground. One hotel was designed with its main part circular. I noticed that most of the buildings would be painted in bright colours if the plans were followed. The display of sculpture was not too bad and it interested me until I had to leave and go and catch my bus in St. Andrew Square.
I just missed one bus for Queensferry, but the second one I caught. I bought an eleven pence single fare to the Forth Bridge. It was all I could afford. When I arrived there I soon found Trevor and Mr. and Miss Ker. After I had photographed the massive bridge, which stretched away into the distance in three massive sweeps, I went and had some tea.
Then with Mr. Ker I went for a stroll into the town of Queensferry. The main street was very narrow but it could not be widened because of old buildings in the way. I came to an old church - the Priory Church of St. Mary of Mount Carmel - Episcopal, and took my last photo on the film of it.
Then we all hopped on to a bus for the city. On the way we passed Fettes College and Daniel Stewart's College. When we reached home I started my writing. I did two reports for the Young Sun, had some supper, and then did two days' diary. After a bath I was quite ready for bed.
Monday, June 6th 1955
Edinburgh
As we had to be at Overseas House by 9.00 a.m. it meant Trevor and myself had to get up comparatively early. After breakfast we were off, and by the time we reached our destination it was almost 9.00. Before nicking off to buy a film I put my blazer in to be dry-cleaned.
There was a distribution of mail and I received one from Mum and one from Graeme Willcox. Graeme's was topical and, as usual, very amusing.
By about 9.30 our buses had arrived and we all got on. I was luckily in the first bus. We left Edinburgh by a road leading south-east, and passed through Lauder and saw Thirlestane Castle to our left. At Earlston there was a brief stop, but no time to walk about. Soon after that the driver slowed down as we were going up a long hill, and the good view down the Leider Valley was partly spoiled by a light mist.
A bit further on we all got out of the coaches to take photos of what is known as Sir Walter Scott's best view, looking down across the River Tweed to the triple Eildon Hills. Behind a camouflage of green trees, which we passed a bit later, our driver told us was the home of the Haig family. Now part of it is a small museum.
When we left the Abbey we crossed the River Tweed and eventually arrived at the little village of St. Boswell's. Here we all went into the village green and ate a picnic lunch. Murray Williamson had the portable wireless which he had bought, and although we thought him a bit daft we all listened to it of course.
After we left there we retraced our path a bit, and then soon after getting onto the Melrose road we stopped for a moment beside a monument which marks the place of a Roman fort called Trimontium. Passing through the village of Newstead we saw some very old houses, about 18th century.
Then on to Melrose, and the buses pulled up beside the old Cistercian Abbey. In contrast with Dryburgh this one was built around by the township. We had a guide to show us around the place, and he was very interesting. I managed to find time to nick out among the tombstones and take a photograph of the church.
When we left Melrose Abbey, after about a ten minutes run we arrived at the home of Sir Walter Scott, Abbotsford. The home was very large, almost a castle, and when we went inside we were told that Scott's descendants still live in part of the house.
What struck me most about the things we saw was that Scott was a great collector. Dozens of different articles were hung on the walls, and in glass cases. We saw his entrance hall, his study, his library, his summer drawing-room, and the armoury. We were some of the first people to be shown into the dining room, which until recently was used by the family of Maxwell Scott.
When we left there we went along by the Tweed, and then crossed it and went back along the other side to Galashiels. The valley was very lovely, and we saw a man out in the stream fishing. After a short stop in Galashiels we were off once more, and via Clovenfords and Walkerburn we were on our way to Peebles. The driver told us that a small ruin on the hill was the remains of Lochiel Castle.
We passed Glentress Forestry School and then, after passing through Peebles and Eddleston, we went through the gates of the Black Barony Hotel. Just at the start of the drive we all hopped out of the buses to take photographs of some shaggy looking Highland cattle standing there.
The hotel was beautifully situated among the trees, with a long expanse of lawn out the front. When we alighted from the buses we all went into the dining room and had a high tea. When we went outside once more I said I would race Bob Martin on the grass, and it ended up with about a dozen of us pounding along. That turned the conversation to athletics in general, and it continued like that until, via Pennycuick once more, we arrived back at Edinburgh.
At Overseas House our blazers were ready after their dry cleaning, and I picked up my laundry. Then Trevor and myself caught a bus. We found that Mr. Ker and Miss Ker were out, and after we had been waiting a while Mr. Ker turned up and said that they had been waiting at Overseas House. Then we all caught an 18 bus, which took us through the Meadows. We saw games of cricket going on there.
We got off at Tollcross and walked to the King's Theatre, where Mr. Ker left us with his daughter to see the show 5 Past Eight. We bought Miss Ker a box of chocolates, and then at 8.05 exactly the show began. It was very good.
After a cold trip home we had supper with Mr. Ker and then went to bed.
Tuesday, June 7th 1955
Edinburgh - Glasgow
Mr. Ker called us before eight, and after we got up I started to pack all my junk. Then we went off for our breakfast. We said "good-bye" to Miss Ker and thanked her very much for everything she had done for us. After breakfast I finished my packing, and by 9.30 I was ready.
Promptly at 9.30 our taxi arrived and I jumped down the stairs with my case. We arrived at Overseas House on time, and with Mr. Ker we went into the lecture room. A few moments later there were speeches, and Mr. Hutchinson finished a fine double by once again referring to our hosts as the people of "Glasgow". Anyway we were out soon, and loaded our cases. Then Trevor and myself said good-bye to Mr. Ker, and he seemed very sorry to see us go; and he said I should "come back to Edinburgh to take my degree." I felt sorry also to have to leave our fine hosts. I had a hurried farewell with Mrs. Ker and Rosemary, who was wagging school to see their boys off.
Then we were on our way from Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. We left the city and headed along the Queensferry Road, and once again I saw the famous Forth Bridge. Through South Queensferry and then we were on our way to Linlithgow, passing through farming country most of the time. As we went through Linlithgow we caught a few glimpses of the Castle which was once the home of Mary Queen of Scots.
Then on once more to the town of Falkirk, which to me seemed to have a bigger shopping centre than Edinburgh. There seemed to be a large industrial area to starboard as we went through. Past Larder and then Plean we saw an occasional coal mine with their attendant hills of waste and slag.
Then Bannockburn, where we saw a monument affair on a hill, but whether it had anything to do with the battle or not I do not know. With Stirling ahead of us we saw the Castle perched upon a hill in the distance, and when we passed through we saw what a strong position it must have been.
After crossing the Teith River we stopped at Callander where, in a bitterly cold wind, we had a picnic lunch on the side of a hill.
When we left there we were in the Trossachs, and soon we saw our first loch. It was windy, and there were quite a few white horses on the water. After that we passed Brig o' Turk before coming upon another loch. The scenery was good, with rugged mountains and tree-covered hills down to the water's edge.
Then we turned up a road and came to Loch Katrine, where we eventually stopped for half an hour. Here some of us climbed up a very steep hill from which we had an excellent vantage point for taking photographs. When I descended I walked along the road again before climbing up once more for a photo. On the way back to the buses I bought three postcards from the tearooms there.
When we left Loch Katrine the country was hilly and rather desolate with tufty grasses about. In one part there was a Crown forest. When we passed through Aberfoyle and Strathblane we came once more into more pastoral country, with cattle grazing about.
By about 4.00 p.m. we had reached our destination in Claremont Terrace, Glasgow, and after alighting from our buses we took our cases into the billiard room.
After a good tea, and a long wait until 6.00 p.m. we were introduced to our hosts. I was met by Jennie and Andrew Hunter, and after a walk to Charing Cross we caught a tram to near Waterloo Street Bus Station where we caught a Hardgate bus.
The bus journey lasted a little over half-an-hour and we passed through Clydebank, the great shipbuilding area in Scotland. I had the famous shipyard of John Brown's pointed out to me, and Jennie told me that her mother was once a tracer there.
The residential part was strange. It "copped it" very badly in two nights of the blitz, when almost everything except a large picture house was flattened. We got off the bus at Hardgate and walked up the street to the house - which I was told was built by Andrew's grandfather.
I met Mrs. Hunter and Andrew's twin brother, James or Jimmie. They made me feel very much at home, and I knew I was going to enjoy my stay with them. I told them how the trip was organised and how lucky I was to get it.
Then I went out, well wrapped up of course, for a walk with the boys. It was awfully cold. They showed me an old bombed out mill, and a burn which used to turn the water wheel. Since the blitz the pools of the burn have been very dangerous, and several people have been drowned there.
I saw a bridge which was built to replace a Roman one destroyed in the blitz, and was told that the grave of a Roman centurion was once nearby. Then I was shown their church, again a post-blitz model, and a section of a wall of a Roman fort which had been unearthed.
On the way home I explained our game of Australian Rules football to the boys, and they said it sounded very interesting.
After a good supper and a feeble attempt at diary writing I was only too ready for bed.
Wednesday, June 8th 1955
Glasgow - "Dalrigg", Cochno Road, Hardgate, Clydebank
Jim woke me up about 7.15 and I was soon out and eating breakfast. I had some Scots porridge and it was pretty good. By about 8.00 Andrew, Jim and myself left the house and, after running down the hill in the nippy morning air. we caught the Glasgow bus at the Hardgate terminal.
We all left the bus in the main street and I walked up to Charing Cross and then turned into Claremont Terrace. When I arrived at Overseas House some of the boys were playing billiards, but I went into the lecture hall to wait.
Mr. Hutchinson told us a few things, and then about 10.00 a.m. the buses arrived which were to take us to the Stevens Dockyard. We crossed the Clyde by the King George V Dock, and saw quite a few ships berthed just a little way downstream.
About 10.35 we arrived at the dockyard and, upon splitting up into A, B and C groups, we started on our tour of the yard. Our first visit was to the boiler and funnel shop. A tremendous din greeted us as we stepped inside, and speech was almost impossible. Overhead, large mobile cranes slid up and down the whole length of the shed. Here and there a welding torch flashed, and the hissing of their flames was lost among the clangings of the sledgehammers on the boilers.
We were all very interested in a machine known as a "knife". It consisted of an oxy-acetylene blowtorch mounted on an arm which moved slowly over the steel plates set below it, and cut easily through them and made them into the required pattern.
When we left there we passed the steel stock. It was lying out in the open in rusty stacks.
Then into the plate shop, which was just as noisy as the boiler shop. Great machines were everywhere, and there seemed to be one for all the multifarious tasks the men do. Massive planers slid along the edges of plates of steel, trimming the edges so that the joints could be welded easily. Large guillotines crashed down, severing thick slabs of steel; and punches which made the required holes for riveting.
Just before we left we passed the colossal bender, which would force the plates into the required shapes for riveting or welding onto the hull of the ship.
Outside once more, and then we passed into the welding bin where we saw the plates being prepared for their positions on the ship. We saw some light wooden shapes which are used as templates when cutting the plates to shape.
When we actually went out to where the ships were being built our guide told us that most of the work is prefabricated in all modern shipbuilding and as little external work is done as possible.
The keels of three ships were down, and they were in a half-completed stage. Of course they looked very rusty. Just down a bit was a merchant vessel already in the water, the Castilian. It was fitting out; and after a walk down the wharf we went aboard her. She was ugly on her upper works with red lead paint, and her decks were a crazy tangle of hoses carrying gas for the welding. The ship was a hive of activity, and when we walked down to the stern we had to watch our step as they were pitching in the deck planks.
Just astern of the Castilian was F185, an Admiralty ship being built by Stevens. One of the workmen pointed out to us the second Empress of Britain, up the river.
When we left there we passed great stacks of timber. Most of it was dressed and looked as if it was for decking. Then into the blacksmith's shop where we saw part of the ships' frames being bent into shape with pins in a frame.
We arrived back at the main gate at about 11.45, and then we went back to Overseas House for our lunch. I was "diddled" by Mr. Butler. I was one of the 33 who wished to go to the University, but he said that as I did art as a subject I should go to the Art Gallery instead. So I went to the Art Gallery.
When we arrived there a lady guide took us upstairs to show us around. We went first to the Italian School. She showed us one from the school of Botticelli. It was tempura and painted on wood. Next, one by Francesco Guardi in oils of an Italian scene. The next one was quite different. It was portion of a plaster wall, an angel's head by Correggio.
Then into another room. A picture which has been called St. Victor and a Donor was from the Flemish or French Schools. The texture of the fur and armour in it were really superb. Our next visit was to one of the most famous in the Gallery, a Rembrandt called A Man in Armour. Technically it was almost perfect, with delicate composition used to colour and highlight the armour.
In a small room, almost alone, but dominating the group anyhow, was a painting by Salvador Dali called Christ of St. John of the Cross. The painting defied most of the known laws of perspective, but its inspired technique made up for that. Light came from two sources, one natural, and one perhaps Divine.
We went downstairs, and then the lady who was guiding us about took me upstairs to see some of Daumier's paintings there.
When I returned downstairs one of the Museum chaps was telling the boys about the armour and weapons. It was quite interesting. He said that at short range a crossbow could go right through a suit of armour.
Then we were free to wander about by ourselves. I walked about with Grant Lindley, and although there were a lot of interesting exhibits we could not really examine them properly in the time.
By about 4.30 we left and, after walking through the gardens to Overseas House to collect my coat, I went to Charing Cross and caught a tram to Waterloo Bus Station. Then by bus to Hardgate, and a brisk walk up Cochno Road to my hosts' home.
Mrs. Hunter told me that she had managed to get tickets for Andrew and myself to go over a new ship in John Brown's shipyard. Soon after some supper I left with Andrew, and after a bus ride we arrived at the yard and obtained our tickets from the office.
Inside the yard it was much more clean and tidy than at Stevens'. We saw two ships being built, and then came to the one we were to go over - R.M.S. Ivernia. From a board we wrote down the following details about the ship - length 608 feet, breadth 80 feet, gross tonnage 22,000 tons, height of mast 166 feet, height of funnel 137 feet. There were nine decks. Passenger accommodation was - First Class 110, Tourist Class 833, Children 110, with 456 Crew.
We went on board, and in the first part were greeted by a smell of new paint and varnish. Everything was gleaming, and much better than on Oronsay. Lifts in the Tourist Class seemed to set the standard of excellence. The walls were covered with a special type of washable material.
Andrew and myself tried to find someone who would tell us about the engines. We spoke to many men without overmuch success.
Finding ourselves in a long queue we filed through the Tourist Dining Room, a beautifully furnished place with a capacity of 450. Then through the kitchen, loaded with refrigerators and gleaming with stainless steel, we went. But when we saw the First Class Dining Room we almost fainted. Gleaming glass blocks had been used in conjunction with a scarlet panelling in the walls and pillars about the place.
At last we came to the cabin accommodation - quite luxurious really. In the theatre we found a man who obliged us with quite a few details about the engines, etc. Two Parsons engines of three turbines each, with each shaft developing 23,000 h.p. The shafts turn at 170 r.p.m. and are 70 feet long. Four generators develop 750 horsepower. Four boilers with a steam pressure of 650 lbs/sq. inch. 15 to 20 tons of crude oil burned per day. Furnace temperature of 2000 degrees C.
The stabilizers fitted can keep the roll to two degrees in almost any sea. The compressors for cooling develop 350 h.p. Steering is hydraulic, and gyroscopically controlled from the bridge. Radar and radio are of course fitted, and are made by Beattie. The funnel is specially designed to throw soot well clear of the decks. The ship is fitted with its own distillation plant and so it can be independent as far as water is concerned.
Our friend told us it was designed to do about 23 knots but I think it could do more. He would not tell us the engine revs.
The rest of the ship was most interesting, and we had a chat with some other men before leaving the ship. They told us that the ship was built for the Canadian run, and in summer could go up as far as Montreal. In winter it will go to New York.
Andrew and myself arrived home, had a bit to eat, and then I went to bed to write some diary.
Thursday, June 9th 1955
Glasgow
Mrs. Hunter did not wake me until about 8.30, and after breakfast together we walked down to the end of the road to catch our bus into town. We left the bus at the Waterloo Street Bus Station and set off to look for some souvenirs for me to buy.
In an arcade off Buchanan Street we found two very nice shops. At the first one I bought a brass ashtray, and after looking at their costume jewellery I decided to look a bit further. So at the second shop I bought a very nice little sword in Celtic silver with a cairngorm stone on top.
Then Mrs. Hunter took me up to the City Chambers, where she left me with the rest of the boys. Soon after we were taken into the Cloakroom, and then we went into the Reception Room. Then the Lord Provost, Mr. Hood, came in and made a speech of welcome to us, and Mr. Hutchinson replied.
After our morning tea one of the employees came and started to take us on a tour of the building. The room we were in was the Satinwood Room. The next big room we went into was the Mahogany Room, and it had murals and leadlight windows. Then we walked into the Council Chambers, and the guide told us about the members and the city Coat of Arms, with -
"the fish that never swam.
the tree that never grew,
the bell that never rang, and
the bird that never flew."
As we were in a hurry our guide could only tell us a little bit about the beautiful staircase and its marble and alabaster columns.
Via two buses we went to Overseas House for our lunch. Before our meal the mail was given out. I received five letters - one from Scout HQ with tickets for Boy Scout on the 17th June, as well as four from home. After that we has a bit of a wait before the buses arrived to take us on our trip to the Massey-Harris factory at Kilmarnock.
On the way quite a bit of the country we passed through was rather barren. It was known as the Fenwick Moor and was composed of tufty grass. Kilmarnock was a pretty large town, with pleasant houses which were a bit out of the rut of ordinary houses in Scotland.
The factory happened to be on the other side of town and it was a very large spread out place. When we arrived we were met by officials of the Massey-Harris-Ferguson Association, and after we had been split up into groups of nine we started on a tour of the factory.
After passing through the office we were in the machine shop. Drills, lathes, and dozens of other types of machines were all over the place. Large steel bins were full of parts which were or were due to be finished there. Our guide told us that all the workers "knocked off" early on a Friday afternoon so that a maintenance squad could service the machines.
We were very surprised when our guide said that most of the parts were made by other firms on sub-contract, and were only finished in the machine shop. While we were there the workers stopped for a ten minute afternoon-tea break. They work a 48-hour week.
Then we saw the forge and press place where there were huge presses which came down with a weight of up to 400 tons. Not far away were furnaces with great lumps of iron, red-hot, waiting to be stamped into shape. As time was pressing we set off for the assembly line, and on the way I saw an office where white-coated men bent importantly over various parts with instruments such as screw-gauges.
In the main bay we saw the assembly lines stretching away from us. On our way towards them we saw great rows of engines and gearboxes. The engines at present being used by the firm are Ferguson, Armstrong Siddeley, and Perkins. We were very intrigued by a man doing spot welding with an instrument like a large pair of tongs, and sending sparks cascading over the factory. Ordinary welders had large screens erected about them to protect the eyes of the workers.
Then we "waffled" along to the baler assembly line, and as we walked along the machines seemed to grow magically before our eyes. We then saw the self-propelled combined line. Round about 30 or 40 machines are produced every day. At the paint dip for the various parts we saw the steel baskets used. They were simply covered in long painty tentacles. The tractor line was not working, but we walked along it and saw them all in the various stages of completion.
There were two types being made. One had a special hydraulic arrangement for towing, while the other had not. When they were rolled off the lines the tractors went into a spray-painting house where they were given a final coat by a heavily clothed figure.
You could have knocked us all over with a feather when we saw them taking all the lovely tractors to bits and wrapping them up in paper before boxing them up.
On our way to the side steps where our photo was to be taken we passed quite a few machines which were to be just taken locally [i.e. not exported]. After quite a bit of mucking about our photo was taken. Quite near they had the Australian flag flying, quite a fine gesture. Then we adjourned to the staff canteen for tea. There were the usual speeches and replies but they didn't last too long, so we were able to bear them. Then we farewelled our guides, and after getting into our buses we were on our way back.
At the Overseas League I wrote my diary and watched television (1st test between England and South Africa) for about half an hour. After a bit of a game of table tennis with Bob Woodrow I waited for Jim and then we went off to meet Andrew at the Girls' High School dance. Max Robinson was also there, and after we had broken the ice we had a fine time.
I soon picked up - after a fashion - the Dashing White Sergeant and the Gay Gordons. We really enjoyed the Marino Waltz and the Grand Old Duke of York. We had to leave by about 10.20 and I was quite sorry to. Back home we had a bite of supper and then I went to bed.
Illustrations:
# "Edinburgh, Capital of Scotland" brochure
# "Edinburgh Castle Official Guide" booklet 1953
# Dryburgh Abbey
# "Dryburgh Abbey Berwickshire Official Guide" 1952
# "Melrose Abbey Roxburghshire Official Guide" 1949
# "A Kelvingrove Jubilee: Fiftieth Anniversary of Glasgow Art Gallery and Museum" booklet 1951
To be continued......
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