Continuing John Mathews' travel diary.........
THE DIARY - London to Colombo
Tuesday, June 28th 1955
London, Tilbury, R.M.S. Otranto
We rose early, and after I had finished packing we had breakfast. After we had said our farewells to Mrs. Kitson we piled into the car with Mr. Kitson to go to our rendezvous at Kensington Town Hall. Then we said good-bye to our kind host, Lt. Col. Kitson, and staggered with our cases to the Town Hall.
When we left on our buses it was a very slow trip; we passed all the (now) familiar places and eventually we were on the road to Tilbury.
On our arrival we unloaded our luggage and, in a series of fits and starts, we eventually got aboard. I did not see one Customs officer. I was in a cabin with the same boys, but John Read left and Kerry Rogers arrived in his place. We had lunch on board.
Soon after 3.30 p.m. Otranto sailed. Brigadier Stokes and Mr. Hitch were there to wave us farewell. As we slipped down the Thames I realised I was at last on my way home.
Farewell Britain!
The Orient liner, Otranto, with length of 632 feet and displacement of 20,032 tons, was built at Barrow-in-Furness and launched in 1925. Her role as a passenger liner was interrupted by requisition into war service in 1939. She served as a troop ship; and participated in the invasion of French North Africa, and landings in Italy in 1943. She returned to civilian service in 1948. Her final voyage, before being scrapped, was in February 1957. Wikipedia and other sources, including the ship's postcard in 1955, refer to Otranto as R.M.S (Royal Mail Steamship), but the daily menus use the prefix S.S. (Steamship). The possibility that at some stage Otranto lost her role as a mail ship - say because of the wartime interruption - is not difficult to imagine, but doesn't explain the persistent references to R.M.S. The Otranto, after 30 years at sea, was pretty tired by 1955, but from a Youth Traveller viewpoint she had the advantage (unlike Oronsay) of being a one-class vessel with ship-wide access.
Wednesday, June 29th 1955
Otranto, English Channel
I did not go to breakfast because I was too lazy to get up. I wandered about, and at 10.00 a.m. I went to the lounge, E Deck aft, and collected my parcel from Selfridges. When I opened it I found that two sticks of lipstick were missing.
At 11.00 a.m. we had an assembly and Mr. Johnstone told us about the arrangements for the trip home. Kerry Rogers was allowed to remain in our cabin. In the afternoon I got to developing films.
Later there was supposed to be period but so many of the boys were sick they cancelled it. The sea was not really rough though.
When I was doing films I dropped and broke my bottle of hypo. I begged another bottle from the drink waiters at the bar. I developed five films, and received 6/- in payment.
Grant, Trevor and Bill were not feeling too well, but all of us except Trevor went to see the film The Constant Husband in the forward Lounge. It was quite terrific.
Thursday, June 30th 1955
Otranto, Bay of Biscay
We were all expecting that when we really got into the Bay of Biscay we would all be seasick, but strangely enough the sea calmed down. After breakfast we had school on E Deck. Mr. Miller had found that it was Mrs. Johnstone's birthday so we all put in and the group prefects went and bought her a present.
I went on with my developing in my spare time and received 4/- in payment. Pip Burfield kept telling me that I couldn't possibly make a success of my work if I didn't have a thermometer. But I haven't ruined any films yet.
There was a slight mess-up about our positions at the dinner table, because twice as many cards as there were seats had been issued for Table 5. I found myself sitting about six tables away.
I went to bed early to try and study a bit but it was pretty hopeless. After lights out there was quite a row from the cabin next door. Mr. Miller was on the warpath, and issuing threats of not going ashore at Naples.
Friday, July 1st 1955
Otranto, Gibraltar
A rather normal day.
A threat had been issued about dirty clothing in cabins, so at breakfast time I went and did my washing. Between periods and at lunch time I kept up my film processing. The seventh film with my developer was a bit blurred so I changed the developer and only charged Mostyn Rutter sixpence for it.
We had to fill in landing cards for Naples, and forms for going ashore in Australia, last thing in the afternoon. Our periods were interrupted by a children's cinema show, but we did not mind. The sea was calm and the sun hot. Many people were going about with red legs and backs.
We were allowed to stay up until 11.00 p.m. as we were calling in at Gibraltar for an hour. It was dusk as we glided into the harbour. The lights on the rock were just pinpricking the darkness. Soon the bumboat men arrived, and pandemonium broke loose. The rails were packed and it was impossible to make yourself heard above the noise. I was unsuccessful in my attempt to buy a fan, but Mr. Butler bought two scarves and I got one off him.
Saturday, July 2nd 1955
Otranto, Mediterranean Sea
I reported sick in the morning with my sore back. Mrs. Johnstone fixed me up and told me I must go on a diet.
John's sore back was due to acne. Mrs. Johnstone's directive to "go on a diet" was good advice then, and still today - but not of much use to John in the short term, given shipboard peer pressure and the three meals a day shipboard regime. Today's expert medical advice for the condition - from Google no less - suggests a diet including turmeric, green tea, vitamins A, D and E, zinc, and Omega-3 fatty acids - with an overarching Mediterranean-style diet. What hope on the Otranto!
In the morning periods I struggled with trigonometric identities and history. It was very hard on me when I had to turn an ice-cream down.
After lunch we all sunbathed on the poop deck. I did not go to afternoon tea. Mr. Tregenza took us for a short interesting poetry session.
We were not allowed to go to the dance, but I wandered about until bed-time.
Sunday, July 3rd 1955
Otranto
Bob Martin, Bill Moore and myself were up early. We went for a dip in the children's swimming pool and then for a run about A Deck. After breakfast I wrote my diary, and a letter home.
At 10.45 a.m. there was a ship's service in the lounge. As I was one of the boys down in the back row I couldn't hear a word of what was going on.
We lazed about in the afternoon, and straight after dinner we went to watch the cinema show. As it was an open-air showing we had to wait until 8.15 p.m. for the start. But Seven Brides for Seven Brothers was worth waiting for.
Monday, July 4th 1955
Otranto, Naples
When I awoke I rushed up on deck and saw that we had almost reached our berth in Naples Harbour. A large aircraft carrier was nearby, so I photographed it.
After breakfast we assembled and found that Mr. Hutchinson had arrived on board. Later we went ashore, and after passing through the shipping house we boarded two buses. I was in a single seat near the front of our bus. The sun was very hot. When our buses set off they got lost in the streets before setting out on the 22 kilometre trip to Pompeii. We soon left the city behind by passing through a sort of tollgate. Soon we were speeding along with citrus groves on either side of the road.
First we saw the Museum (or Antiquarium) which housed relics unearthed in excavation of the city in the last 200 years. Nearby was the city gate, and then up the street we found shops - the wine shops being distinguished by enormous terra-cotta pots sunk into the counter.
Most of the construction was of limestone or brick which had been stuccoed over to represent marble, which was unobtainable in the vicinity. Further up the street was the Temple of Apollo, with the statue removed. Opposite it was the Basilica or seat of government, while the Town Hall was just around the corner.
All the civic buildings were placed about the Square, which had the Temple of Jupiter at one end. Down another street we saw how they had stepping stones for pedestrians to cross the cobbled street in rainy weather. They must have had rather rough rides in their chariots.
We saw a large water trough with its ornamental drinking place worn away with use. Next we went into a house where our guide pointed out the atrium, peristyle, vestibule, cubicles, dining hall, and the drawing room, explaining the derivation of some of them.
Past more shops and houses we went - we saw grinding mills, ovens, and quite a few bars. In some houses were well-preserved frescoes. One house had been partially restored and gave us a good idea of the typical Roman villa. We saw original lead piping, a tap, and many beautiful frescoes - as well as cooking utensils.
On our way out we saw the public baths, with their barrel vaults and pools for hot and cold bathing. Some very beautiful stucco work remained.
We all bought a Coke for 1/- and then caught our buses back to the ship. We were late for the only sitting of lunch and had to wait a bit. About 3.20 p.m., after being paid in lira, we went off to the city to do our shopping. I also walked through the Customs with 150 cigarettes for trading. They fetched 200 lira for a packet of 25. I bought a small music box for 1,000 lira, and two cameo brooches for 75 cigarettes and 250 lira plus 2/-.
Otranto sailed about 6.00 p.m.. On the way out I saw that the aircraft carrier was USS Interpid - with Sabres, Shooting Stars, and unidentified long-distance bombers.
Tuesday, July 5th 1955
Otranto
I was up about 2.00 a.m. as we passed Stromboli. I saw it erupt twice, and after waiting a while more I tumbled back into bed. I was too tired to go to breakfast. When I reported to Mrs. Hutchinson about my back she told me to have hot salt baths and to take salts.
In the afternoon I started a new notebook and put more into my work than I had done for a long time.
It was very hot when we went to bed and the cabin next door was very rowdy.
Wednesday, July 6th 1955
Otranto
In the morning I was up very early for a swim, and then with some other boys I went along to a 7.00 a.m. P.T. class on A Deck. I thought it would do me good and I suppose it did, although some of the exercises I couldn't do.
Lessons were normal in the morning. In the afternoon we watched games of ship-cricket before going to collect our stickers for sleeping out. There were no lessons after that because the Captain was holding a cocktail party.
In the evening Bob, Bill and myself got together to write a report on Pompeii for the Young Sun. We slept on D Deck.
Thursday, July 7th 1955
Otranto, Port Said
I woke feeling tired, about 5.40 a.m., but I forced myself to go for a swim. I didn't feel any better - in fact I had a slight head and tummy ache. I trotted along to the P.T. class but that did not improve me. I didn't have much breakfast.
Before we went ashore we had to wait for a while. When we passed the police I was given my passport for the first time.
Once ashore we were pestered by people trying to sell us things from half-crown watches to spring-knives. We walked about the block and I got the impression that if there wasn't any Suez Canal there wouldn't be any Port Said. The buildings seemed all right, but most of the people and the streets stank.
The night was stinking hot, but we couldn't sleep up on deck.
Friday, July 8th 1955
Otranto, Suez Canal
It was hot, and I spent most of the morning sun-bathing or reading. We did not enter the Canal until well after 1.00 p.m. A rumour had passed around that the delay was caused by a broken pump in the engine room.
The journey was slow and monotonous. After we left Port Said there were stunted trees, or perhaps only bushes, in the awful sand. There was occasional traffic on the road and a few trains passed us. Started White Coolies.
Just before dinner we came to the Farouk By-pass, and our convoy of nine ships tied up to let the other convoy through. Our mooring ropes were carried ashore by Egyptians in rowing boats, and they made heavy weather of it.
I did not bother going to sleep on deck.
Saturday, July 9th 1955
Otranto, Gulf of Suez, Red Sea
In the morning, passing down the Gulf of Suez, we saw oil derricks and installations on the Egyptian coast. I did French most of the morning. Mr. Butler corrected it. In the afternoon I wrote a 900-word report of my impressions of the trip and gave it to Mrs. Hutchinson for her husband.
It was dreadfully hot.
The red Sea Race Meeting was held, but I did not go.
Sunday, July 10th 1955
Red Sea
I was only just up in time for breakfast, and then I lounged around until our assembly. Contingent photographs were distributed to those who had ordered them.
The church service was at 10.45 a.m. in the dance square on B Deck. I went. Most of the day I spent playing table tennis and reading Hornblower and the Atropos. I beat Bill Moore, 16-21, 21-16, 25-23 in the first round of our championships.
In the evening I wrote two letters - one to Mrs. Harvey and one to Auntie Edna. After dinner we went to seeThe Dam Busters.
Monday, July 11th 1955
Otranto, Red Sea
The day was very hot and humid, with just enough sea to stop the water evaporating. I enjoyed myself with the history of Japan and a bit of French. Singing in the afternoon.
Mr. Hutchinson stood us drinks but our group had a bit of trouble getting served because the waiters did not like getting "threepenny 'orribles".
There was a trust pay for Aden in the afternoon.
Before bed I played cards in the forward lounge on B Deck.
Tuesday, July 12th 1955
Otranto, Aden
We tucked in well at breakfast because we were not to get any lunch. We saw an oilfield on a barren shore before we reached Aden about 10.00 a.m. Mail was distributed, and then after a fair wait we went ashore by launch. It was very hot.
The Honorary Corresponding Secretary of the Overseas League in Aden, Miss Patel, met us and we boarded two buses. The buses took us along through the tourist shopping centre, and following the sea we passed oil installations and surprisingly modern buildings. Soon we were in another native section. The filth and smell was appalling.
Then we revved up a long hill past two "bone gardens" with the craggy rocky cliffs to one side and the blue dhow-dotted sea on the other. Surmounting the cliffs were a chain of forts linked by walls. We turned a corner, and lo we were passing between great rock walls into what is known as the Crater area.
What a sight! A town surrounded by grim grassless rocky slopes. There were some quite modern clean buildings but, of course, the natives' houses were small and dirty. The inevitable goats wandered everywhere. We were surprised when a fair sized school was pointed put to us.
Suddenly we pulled up in front of the local gardens. We walked through the only greenery I had seen since Port Said, and were shown a chain of water tanks which are said to have been built by the Queen of Sheba 3,000 years ago. They hold 20,000,000 gallons of water. One inch of rain will fill them up. They were uncovered in 1854. After a spin in a little museum we left the Crater area.
When we were on our way back we were shown a beautiful beach and swimming pool. At the local fruit market Mr. Hutchinson bought fruit for us all. Drinks arrived, but there was a bit of hesitation before we drank them. There was quite a voluble discussion in Arabic before we settled our bill and moved on.
We alighted from the bus at Miss Patel's shop and went off to do our shopping. I went into all the shops but I could not buy a slide-rule. We were hurried because time was short, and I ended up buying a gown, a stereoscope and three reels for it; and on the pontoon before going on board again I bought a gaudy shirt.
We were late leaving, and the night was not quite as hot as before.
Wednesday, July 13th 1955
Otranto, Arabian Sea
The sea decided to play tricks. One moment it would be swelling back and forth, and the next there would be quite respectable white caps.
I spent most of the morning doing history, and after lunch I almost washed my hands away. Aden water is HARD.
A Teenagers' Afternoon was held, with novelty events, and by the time it was over the sea was getting up for good. The south-west monsoon had hit us.
Many of the boys just gave up and lay in chairs waiting to be ill. We measured a roll of 19 degrees.
Thursday, July 14th 1955
Otranto, Arabian Sea
Trevor and Grant and Bill had been ill and slept up on deck. When we got up we found that part of F Deck had been roped off. From down that low the sea looked mountainous. We shipped a lot of water, and F Deck was entirely roped off. Quite a few cabins on G Deck were flooded.
We had school on E Deck, and several times waves came over. We slid over the deck in chairs at times. In the afternoon I did a report on Aden for the Young Sun.
Many people were sea-sick, and lay on E Deck most of the day. Roll from19 degrees to 28 degrees.
Friday, July 15th 1955
Otranto
Most of the boys had recovered from their bouts of sea-sickness and they turned up for school.
The sea seemed to be abating a trifle and we only shipped water on our deck once. The ice-creams which were distributed during the course of the morning as usual were not very popular because some of us did not want to trust our stomachs.
Mr. Hutchinson instituted a fingernail inspection. The ropes about F Deck were nearly all taken off.
I had a great stack of ironing to do before going to bed. Clocks were retarded 45 minutes.
Saturday, July 16th 1955
Otranto
I did not wake until 8.15 a.m. and therefore missed breakfast. I tried to get on with my physics syllabus but it was rather hopeless.
We were told that we were not certain of going ashore at Colombo, because of the delay caused by the monsoon.
In the afternoon I played Kingsley Purdie in the ship's table tennis tournament. He beat me 21-5 and 22-20.
There was a meeting to discuss a gift for Mr. Hutchinson, but as Val Noone was chairman not much headway was made.
Sunday, July 17th 1955
Otranto
Once again I slept right through and missed going to breakfast. Bob Martin said only two boys were at our table for breakfast, so I wasn't the only one who couldn't wake up. The church service was at 10.45 a.m. as usual and we all attended.
I was glad to get On Our Selection, by Steele Rudd, out of the ship's library, and I spent quite a time reading.
We started to think about having a midnight feast, so I walked away from the luncheon table with three buttered rolls and some cheese and biscuits to contribute my share. At afternoon tea we all smuggled cakes out. The cabin total was about 2 1/2 dozen. We wound up our "swear box", and with the proceeds of 3/9 we bought a packet of biscuits and some marshmallows.
At about 10.30 p.m. we started. I hopped out of bed and took up my duties as drink-waiter. I had managed to get some ice from the Pig & Whistle and so the drinks were a bit cool. We had quite a merry and gastronomic time.
When we finished and tried to get to sleep we were disturbed by other "bods" making a row. I think we arrived in Colombo about midnight.
Illustrations:
# Otranto postcard
# "Orient Line to Australia, List of Passengers and General Information" booklet
# Order of Morning Service, Otranto, 3 July 1955
# Contingent members in Pompeii
# The Basilica, Pompeii
# Otranto dinner menu 5 July 1955
# Port Said from Otranto
# Otranto from Port Said
# Traders at Otranto in Port Said
# Otranto in Aden
# Water tanks, Aden
# Water tanks, Aden
To be continued..........
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