Concluding John Mathews' travel diary...........
THE DIARY - Colombo to Melbourne
Monday, July 18th 1955
Otranto, Colombo
We woke up about 6.30 and sped up on deck because we knew that if we were not going ashore we would have to buy our souvenirs from the bumboat men over the side. I bought a pair of bookends with secret panels in them for 22/-, and later a pair of elephants for 5 rupees (7/6). Quite a few boats were about, and the boys were up and buying hard with what little money they had left. We found that we were not going ashore because Otranto was due to sail at 7.00 a.m.
After I had completed my purchases I wandered about with my camera to get a few photos of Colombo Harbour. There were ships of every nationality and sort in the harbour, and through the haze and smoke I could see the fort area. Round to port of that was another part of the city, with dusty green coconut palms sprouting from a house-strewn landscape. On the starboard side of the ship was the long breakwater. Occasionally the swell would cascade upwards over the wall into a plume of shimmering spray.
A modern looking ship entered the harbour. At first, by its lines, I took it to be a liner, but it was much too small. It was the Cambodge, and the tricolour fluttered from the jack-mast, proclaiming it to be French. Like many European countries, France's post-war merchant fleet is very modern.
Some of the boys bought coconuts over the side for a few pence. I helped Mostyn Rutter break his, and he gave me a piece.
By about 9.00 a.m. things were starting to happen. The lighters pulled away and then the bumboat men tugged away their ropes and retreated, with last-minute jibes from us ringing in their ears. The tug Samson came and started to shove our stern round so that we could make for the harbour entrance. I counted 13 men on board who just appeared to be leaning against the deckhouse to stop them falling over.
Then we were under way, and after passing a few fishing boats we were away from Colombo.
Next stop Australia!
We kept the coast of Ceylon in sight for most of the day as we steamed southward. During the morning I tried to learn a bit of French, but I fancy I did not absorb much. The sea was moderate, and we were sprinkled with rain until they covered up the windward railings completely.
Before lunch I played Wayne Sibly at deck tennis. He licked me easily, 6-0, 6-1. The captain broadcast a message to say that water consumption would have to be drastically reduced during our crossing of the Indian Ocean.
In the afternoon I tidied up all the stuff I had bought. After dinner we went up to the lounge on B Deck to see the film The Night My Number Came Up. The suspense created was excellent.
Tuesday, July 19th 1955
Otranto, Crossing the Line
School was much the same as usual. I turned my attention to maths.
In the evening there was to be a Fancy-Dress Ball, and I spent quite a while trying to think up something original, but I cold not.
At noon there was a Pig & Whistle parade for drinks.
I ended up going to the Ball and, although I did not win, I had a lot of fun. Our boys won the group prize as a group of convicts and a warder.
Wednesday, July 20th 1955
Otranto, Indian Ocean
I got stuck into some algebra and soon my head was whirling with joint variables and many other horrible things.
We had a Pig & Whistle parade at noon but they only turned on three limes, which are not very good.
In the afternoon Mr. Hutchinson started a search of all our baggage for restricted imports. He found quite a few coshes, but no spring knives.
In the evening there was a scavenger hunt and I helped the cabin next door.
Mr. Hutchinson made three of us sleep up on deck.
Thursday, July 21st 1955
Otranto, Indian Ocean
At morning parade Mr. Hutchinson told us that at the first morning break he would be as far as possible from his cabin, and he said he wanted all spring knives in the contingent to be left there. I think he was presented with five of them. During the morning we saw the funeral of the coshes which had been the harvest of the previous day's search.
Mr. Butler took Victoria intermediates for a period on Federation, and I went.
In the evening they held a "Hampstead Heath" night with spinning jennies and other gambling devices. I did not go to it.
Friday, July 22nd 1955
Otranto, Indian Ocean
Before school Mr. Hutchinson told me to have a haircut, and I was therefore a bit late for assembly.
In the last few days there had been an outbreak of impetigo among us. Bruce Dixon, Rodney Smith and Trevor Shiell had been infected, and they had a brilliant purple dye on all their infected parts. The purple dye was gentian violet, still today used as a treatment for impetigo although not so
School was just as boring as usual. Mr. Butler finished off his lesson about Federation for us. I did not feel particularly like working.
In the afternoon we all had to write down the things we had bought which could not be classed as personal effects, in case the Customs should not be satisfied with the general declaration which Mr. Hutchinson was making on behalf of us all.
Mr. Hutchinson told us the strict measures which we should have to take to prevent impetigo running through the contingent. Everyone had to label pillows, towels, etc., and avoid all physical contact. Before dinner we all handed in our stretchers.
At 8.30 p.m. in the Children's Playroom there was a show of the colour slides which boys had taken on the trip.
Saturday, July 23rd 1955
Otranto, Indian Ocean
In the morning Mr. Hutchinson committed to the deep the five spring knives which had been left in his cabin. You could almost tell the boys who had bought them by the facial expressions as they sailed overboard.
I did not feel like working, but we all had to keep at it. In the morning, before our lunch break, the series of talks started the previous day were completed. Gary Andrews told us of an experience he had with a man who claimed to be a Canadian serviceman looking for a place to stay. I was pretty certain that I had been accosted by the same chap in Piccadilly one day.
Last period in the afternoon we had to write an essay on an "Incident at Sea" or a "Storm at Sea". I chose the latter.
As a special favour we were allowed to stay up for the Gala Dance & Buffet Supper. We were most interested in the supper. The spread was terrific. We went through the queue about three times. The cakes and meringues I had brought down to the cabin were eaten for me by my kind cabin mates. We did not get to bed until about midnight.
Sunday, July 24th 1955
Otranto, Indian Ocean
No one in our cabin woke up until 8.30 and so we all missed breakfast. I just had time to get up and have a shower before our assembly at 9.30. Then we went off to the church service in B Deck forward lounge.
After that the whole contingent assembled on D Deck to give us all an opportunity of a group photograph.
I lazed around after lunch and did a bit of ironing before and after dinner. Wonder of wonders - I also darned a couple of socks. I had Dick Barton "doctor" Grant's and Trevor's pyjamas.
Monday, July 25th 1955
Otranto, Indian Ocean
I slept through breakfast time once more and only just made it to assembly at 8.45. At 10.00 a.m. we all lined up in the biting wind to have our medical inspection to comply with the quarantine laws. It seemed a bit of a farce to me. The doctor only looked at the insides of our arms.
When we lined up for Bovril the sea was getting rough, and the sailors partly roped off F Deck once more.
After lunch Grant and Trevor finished their packing as they were supposed to. When I paid them a visit I found Grant "pumpkining" my pyjamas. When I undid them I did up Bill's and Bob's as well as possible. Afternoon school was a slight shambles. Nobody did much work. I just read, and got the addresses of the last of the W.A. "bods". Later I found that Grant had "done" my pyjamas once more; but Bill Moore found my pumpkin, and thinking it belonged to him he undid it - much to my delight. Kerry later told Bob and Bill where theirs were.
We had a farewell party. Mr. Johnstone, Mr. Reid, Mr. Everard. Mr. Ireland etc. spoke!
After dinner there was the Captain's Prize Night, but before we went Kerry and myself short-sheeted Trevor's and Grant's beds as a parting gesture before they left us at Fremantle.
I received a very nice book on Europe for my prize in the essay competition. Max Robinson and John Huppatz also were presented with good books.
Kerry and I found that we had been "apple pied" by Bill, who had also hidden my pyjamas. We developed a "secret weapon" to counteract the military aggression of some of the other cabins. The sea was very rough and I had some difficulty going to sleep.
Tuesday, July 26th 1955
Otranto, Fremantle, Perth
When John Read found me asleep in our empty cabin at 6.47 he woke me and I rushed up to our assembly without having time for a wash.
We went and joined the end of the queue in the lounge for the quarantine inspection. Otranto was slowly sliding into Fremantle harbour, and the W.A. boys were becoming very excited - and irate about having to wait in a long queue when their parents would be waiting on the wharf for them.
We berthed soon after 7.00 a.m. and all the time we just stood in the stationary queue. By 7.30 the queue started, and after walking past a man who must have been the doctor, and having our passports stamped, we were at breakfast by about 8.00 a.m.
There was another long wait about until the quarantine was over and the gangways could be fixed. Just before 10.30 a.m. we all went ashore. I carried Trevor's cases and put them down for the Customs to check. The W.A. boys were soon through. I met Trevor's parents and then they went off.
At 10.45 we all piled into a Metro bus and set off for Perth. We went along the Stirling Highway, covering much the same ground as on our previous visit to Perth.
We were received at Overseas House by Mr. and Mrs. Barnes. Peter Williams and Mr. Miller were there and they both made speeches. After the speech-making we all piled into the laden table in front of us.
Mr. Hutchinson gave us a shilling each, and told us we could go down the street until 2.00 p.m. I went off with Bob Martin. What a joy it was to walk about an Australian town once more. Just the atmosphere seemed to thrill us.
Bob and I walked down St. George's Terrace, up to Hay Street and then along there. Later we went up to Murray Street, and then back to Hay Street. I really enjoyed spending my whole 2/6 on sweets and things.
We left Overseas House at 2.00 p.m. and went back to the ship. The rain which was pouring down was typical of the day's showery weather. Later we went ashore to Fremantle to get milk shakes.
I did some washing and ironing.
We were in for some rough weather, and on sailing at 7.00 p.m. we were warned to prepare for the worst.
Wednesday, July 27th 1955
Otranto
After a cold night I was awakened by our steward, Bob Russell, who said it was 7.50 and that if I wanted any breakfast I had better get up. I just sat down in time to have some cereals.
The sea was quite rough and we were all feeling the cold very much. We finished off the box of fruit which Bob Martin had been sent by his mother.
I had a hot salt bath and rub-down to try to clear up the sores on my back. Mrs. Hutchinson told me to go on an all protein diet. I was given special permission to have an orange from Mr. Butler's stock whenever I was feeling hungry.
We had our last sight of the Western Australian coast.
Our dining waiter had missed the ship at Fremantle and I was shifted off to the table with Gary Andrews, Philip Cocks, Grahame Hellyer, Colin Doxford and Gavan Butler. I ate well but kept off starches etc.
After dinner we went up to the forward lounge for a showing of the film Green Fire. It was not bad, but in some parts it was rather corny
Thursday, July 28th 1955
Otranto, Great Australian Bight
Well, the Bight has let us down!
When we went up on deck in the morning the sea was much calmer than the previous day. Not a white-top was in sight. The ship kept rolling quite a bit though. The weather was still cold, although a sickly kind of sunlight was lighting up part of the deck.
I managed to do a bit of arithmetic and French during morning school. The morning beef-tea and biscuits were very welcome.
I did some washing before and after lunch and started my packing. In the back of my mind was the question of how I was to manage all my luggage when going ashore in Melbourne.
Mr. Butler asked Max Robinson and myself to write supplements to our essays for the Torquay Overseas League. I spent more time talking to Bill Moore and Val Noone than I did writing.
Before dinner Bob Martin and Kerry Rogers took me up to the map outside the Purser's office and started skiting about the wonderful city of Adelaide.
After dinner I retired to bed early to write up my diary and read.
Friday, July 29th 1955
Otranto, Great Australian Bight
Our last day of school, so there was much excitement among us. For the first part of the morning I finished off the essay for Mr. Butler, which I had started the day before. I managed to put one or two highfalutin phrases into it.
The South Australians took the day much easier than we did. They were given time off to wash, iron, and pack.
I spent the rest of the day reading and getting autographs and addresses from the South Australian "bods". Almost everyone else loafed about too. We had beef-tea and biscuits as usual at mid-morning, and the oranges that Mr. Butler had were distributed twice.
Just before dinner we all had to return our last library books and hand our cards back.
After dinner i went to our cabin and found that my pyjamas were missing. Bob Martin had also "tooth-pasted and orange peeled" my bed. There were high jinks all around, and when Bill and myself were pulling Bob Martin out of bed Mr. Hutchinson walked in.
Some of the South Australian boys had a party.
Saturday, July 30th 1955
Otranto, Adelaide
I woke to find Kerry Rogers and Bob Martin already up. Bob decided to welcome me to Adelaide by pulling my bedclothes on to the floor. I felt it would be much simpler to get dressed and go on deck than to stay in bed.
In the early morning light we were just pulling into Outer Harbour under the fuzzy eyes of three small tugs. I joined the mob of boys on the rails who were waiting for us to berth. Very ribald were the comments we made about the harbour at the S.A. boys' expense. As we came alongside there were joyful shouts as boys recognised their parents and friends. Mr. Hutchinson had six of us go up to collect any mail. Very few letters were for us, only a half-dozen or so.
After a hurried breakfast I went down to our cabins to find them swarming with people. I met Mrs. Martin and she invited me to go home with Bob for lunch. I helped Bob up to E Deck with his luggage, and then Max Robinson told me that some friends were waiting by the gangway to see me. I followed him and was very surprised and delighted to find the Prices there to meet me.
They offered to take me off with them, so I had to go back and apologise to Mrs. Martin and obtain permission from Mr. Hutchinson. We were given our passage tickets temporarily; this was the first time we had seen them. Off I went with Edna, Fred and Pam, through the pouring rain to their Holden. We drove down Lady Gowrie drive and then passed Largs and eventually Semaphore beaches. I thought they were awfully weedy.
Fred took us right into the dock area about the Port Adelaide Inlet. I was surprised at their large extent. After going through Port Adelaide we went along the Port Road towards the city. Most of the areas were quite "factoryised". We passed through the suburbs of Hindmarsh and Findon. Down the centre of the road was a beautiful nature strip which, according to the enterprise of the appropriate council, was more or less utilised as a beauty feature.
At length we hit the north-west corner of the city and proceeded down North Terrace. Fred talked incessantly, describing the railway station and the Bank of New South Wales building in much detail. I was rather interested in the fact that Adelaide, according to Fred, is built on a clay plastic sub-soil. This restricts the height of the buildings.
We passed the Corinthian-columned Parliament House and came down to the first good view I had of the Torrens. I was horrified, but Fred apologised and said that they had pulled the plug out to clean it.
We went past St. Peter's Cathedral up to the Colonel Light monument. The view was quite good, but the dull hazy day spoilt it.
Back down near the Torrens we wound about and eventually crossed over, seeing the Zoo, Botanical Gardens and University in the process. Into North Terrace once more, and then down to and along Rundle Street. I was disappointed with the shops.
As we were off to visit relations of mine we drove down Pulteney Street and Hanson Street to Unley Road. Then along Park Terrace where we eventually arrived at the home of my Great Aunt Maud Mackenzie. I met Auntie Maud and then Uncle Don when he came in. Later, I was introduced to Rene, and she loved to hear all the things I could tell her about the trip.
After a bit of morning tea we left and went to the Price's flat for some dinner. Trafford arrived home, bemoaning the chemistry exam for which he had just sat. We were off by 2.00 and, after dropping Pam at basketball, I was taken out to see Aunt Bert and Aunt Lottie. Then Fred and Edna left me to go back to the basketball. I was most interested to talk to the two ladies, who were most active and talkative for their age. I was shown about the back yard and loaded up with oranges. One of Dad's cousins, Austin, dropped in for a few moments, then left again.
I was picked up again at 4.00 p.m., and we collected Austin, his wife, and Aileen their daughter, before speeding off for the ship. We arrived about 4.45 and hurried aboard.
My relations stopped to see us off, and Bob Martin and Kerry Rogers were there also. Some people ran up just a few seconds too late and missed the ship.
Before dinner I did some washing and afterwards I went to bed to write my diary.
Sunday, July 31st 1955
Otranto
Bill and I slept in and did not get up until about 9.30 a.m. Before and after the church service at 10.45 a.m. I was busy with ironing and packing.
At lunch we started preparations for our party in the evening which would climax our trip for us. With the cheerful co-operation of our waiters we pocketed rolls, biscuits, butter and cheese, and after wrapping them up we even took our salads away with us.
After lunch we got stuck into the making of salad rolls, savoury biscuits and other tasty things to eat. I lettered out a formal invitation to Mr. and Mrs. Hutchinson, and we later received an acceptance. Bob Turnbull and myself started on our tropical dessert. From afternoon tea we managed to walk out with ten dozen cakes. The other boys arranged tables in and decorated number seven hatchway. Later one of the ship's electricians arrived with a floodlight. After more scrounging at dinner we finished our preparations for 8.30. I had been elected M.C. I escorted Mr. and Mrs. Hutchinson and Mr. Butler in.
We had drinks, eats, speeches and cheers in a very happy and informal party. Afterwards we all went dancing round the ship in a long line, before bed.
Monday, August 1st 1955
Otranto, Melbourne, Home at Last
"Dogsbody" Ironside called me at 3.00 a.m. and by 3.30 I was up on deck. We had just passed through the Heads and the lights of Queenscliffe, St. Leonards, Sorrento and Portsea were flickering busily on the horizon.
Val Noone, Don Ironside, Bob Everard, Colin Doxford and myself divided our time between the freezing outer deck and the comparatively warm lounge. By 4.00 a.m. we had passed the South Channel Light and the lights of Rosebud and Rye were strung along like pearls on black velvet. In the background the vague shape of Mt. Martha was visible. Ahead of us the sky began to glow, and soon the first lights of the city peeped out at us. As we approached we amused ourselves trying to pick out certain parts of Melbourne by the lights which we could see. We picked out Altona and St. Kilda easily.
Otranto hove to about 6.00 a.m. to wait for dawn before going in to berth.
Then we had to go to an assembly. Mr. Moloney was aboard, and he made our last speech.
I was off like a shot out of a gun to search for my family. I found Dad and Nana first, and later the others turned up with Auntie Mill.
With all the fuss of getting through the Customs almost everyone, including Mr. Hutchinson, faded away before I had a chance to say good-bye properly.
What a shock I received when Dad took me to a Holden Special instead of a Consul. Things had been happening! With Alan and Elizabeth all agog to see what I had brought for them, we piled into the new car for home.
Suddenly I realised it was all over. Our wonderful dream was finished, but as we turned down the driveway I knew one thing for certain..........IT'S GREAT TO BE HOME.
Illustrations:
# Crossing the Equator Certificate
# Notice about medical inspection upon arrival in Australia
# John Mathews' drawing of Australian Coat of Arms
# "Useful Travel Information on Western Australia" booklet
# "Sun Travel Boys Nearly Home" clipping (John Mathews right of group)
# Otranto breakfast menu 29 July 1955
# Nearing Station Pier, Port Melbourne
# John Mathews drawing "East West Home's Best"
Afterword:
As the Blog postings of John Mathews' diary neared their conclusion I realised that the arrival home was a bit of an abrupt ending, and that some latter-day comment on the schoolboy adventure would be appropriate. I contacted John, and he proffered the following reflection - typically self-effacing, written in the third person:
Looking back after almost 67 years, we barely recognise the boy who kept the diary. He was naïve, he was opinionated, and he did not suffer from political correctness. However, he paid attention, and his short-term memory was excellent, as evidenced by many detailed descriptions in the diary. On the trip, he learned from the other boys about some of the social differences in 1950s Australia, and he learned how to accommodate to the different expectations of the other boys.
Most importantly, from the experiences in Colombo and other foreign ports, he learnt how lucky he was to have been born in Australia; he came to understand a little about the poverty, the ignorance, and the constraints of living in colonial and post-colonial countries.
After arrival in the UK, he was enthusiastic about the ceremonials around royalty, and enjoyed the museums and galleries and other historical attractions. Although different host families held different expectations of young Australians, he felt most rewarded by the kindnesses and friendship offered, regardless of the social status of the families concerned.
The boy learned a great deal, and developed many practical skills; for example, he quickly learnt to navigate the London Underground, and had the confidence to travel independently through the wider UK when opportunity offered.
His experiences helped him to grow up, and to appreciate the wider world and its history. Most importantly, he leant to understand differences and the importance of relationships in determining the human condition.
After almost 67 years, his older self accepts the veracity of Wordsworth's aphorism: “The child is father to the man".
He has always been grateful for the opportunity provided by that 1955 trip, although he cannot imagine the detail of how his life would have evolved without it.
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